Much better than we’ve been told.
A country where people are crazy about Barca (or Real Madrid- football); they greet you very affectionately and cordially with a “welcome to Iran”.
Strolling around the impressive bazaars in Teheran or Isfahan while taking some pictures, people came to shake hands, ask me where I was from and offer me a tea, food, or even their homes; ordinary, anonymous people who made all possible to make you feel comfortable in their country.
The most interesting were the chats, which they started, and step by step they let you know about their country and lifestyle, very usual except for one issue: women. That’s without a doubt a negative point according to our westerner point of view.
I am illiterate when it comes to the Muslim world, but I think that we have to consider their lives from a double point of view: a critical one and an understanding one.
The critical point of view is all about censure and lack of freedom, especially for women, who cannot decide whether they want to cover their heads with a scarf or not, or what clothes to wear. Some of those women don’t want to live that life and feel obliged to it. I chatted with some women, even together with their husbands, and they said they were fed up with living under such oppression. At the same time, and that would be the other point of view, I also met people who wanted to live that way and be respected. It was like saying everybody should take care of their own business, we’re like that and that’s the way we want to be.
However, I could never accept this way of life simply because I wasn’t born there. If I had been born in that country and had a very strict education, maybe I would have another opinion. That’s the reason why I think it’s not fair to judge individuals, maybe it’s the system we have to judge.
You can clearly see who prefers what, as you see women dressed totally in black, only showing her eyes, and women with more “western” clothes, with the scarf not totally covering their heads, and wearing make-up. Unfortunately, sometimes they’re reprehended for that.
As in many places, there are no bad persons, but there may be bad governments and reproachable living conditions. However, Iran as a country and its people are delightful, the Persian region offers infinite possibilities and routes to discover a country rich in culture and excellent people.
Living in San Francisco we are lucky enough to live in such a mild climate but the winter’s chill is not something I personally look forward to. Yes, it is a magical feeling wandering around Union Square, the Christmas decorations lit up in every shop front, people laughing as they stumble around the ice skating rink and the general holiday spirit that fills the air, but coming from Australia, I still crave some good old fashioned beach action. So this year we decided to escape the cold and jet off to the Bahamas for Christmas.
As I mentioned in my earlier post the decision to travel to the Bahamas was decided based on certain criteria. Most importantly, due to our fascination and passion for festivals… and we were not disappointed but more of that in another post.
Last year I decided to make an effort to stick to some specific airlines in an attempt to work on my frequent flyer miles and improve my status. Well, after a couple of trips back to Australia in 2013 I reached Silver Status with United Airlines and this would be my first trip traveling under that status. Our itinerary had us traveling from San Francisco via Denver and Newark to Nassau. The connections would be tight but the cost of the flight made it worth the risk…. or so we thought.
We were delayed out of San Francisco resulting in a 20-minute connection in Denver. To make matters worse, it had been snowing so we had to make a run for the gate. Luckily we made it, just in the nick of time and the remainder of the journey was smooth sailing since New York was experiencing unusually warm weather. That is until we arrived in Nassau. After clearing customs we made our way to the baggage carousel to collect our one and only checked bag. You know where this story is going right – yup, after watching everyone collect their bags we had nothing.
There are many lessons that can be learned from travel mishaps and the biggest lesson learned from this was to always pack some spare clothes in your carry-on bag. I am currently working on a post about lost luggage so I won’t go into too much detail here but let’s just say that I wasn’t going to spend much time on the beach in pants and a jacket. I needed to buy some shorts since our bag was set to arrive the next afternoon.
Our bad luck was soon forgotten as soon as we left the airport looking for a taxi to take us to our hotel. While we had been waiting for our bag to arrive the rest of the passengers on our flight had been grabbing every available taxi which left only a limousine for us. The chauffeur explained it was our lucky day and said that he would drop us off at our hotel for the same cost as a taxi… SCORE!
We spent four nights staying at the Melia Nassau on Cable Beach and set out on our relaxation quest. All I wanted to do was relax at the beach or by the pool, read a book and write.
One of the main things that grabbed me from the very start of our trip was how “American” the Bahamas seemed to be, especially considering that just 40 years ago it was part of the British Commonwealth. I guess the influx of American tourists arriving by the boatload every day has strongly influenced the country.
Walking around downtown Nassau we couldn’t help but bump into tourists coming off one of the many cruise liners docked in port. Clearly this has played a massive role in shaping the country since declaring independence. You don’t need to look far to find a McDonalds or a Starbucks. Even the ATMs let you take out US dollars, which are accepted at every store and even on the local buses or street vendors.
Don’t expect a cheap holiday in the Bahamas – everything needs to be imported and with the current tax system prices are inflated. Then on top of that, be prepared to see a 15% service charge mandatorily added at the end of your bill. Let’s face it, you are not coming to the Bahamas for a cheap trip but if you are looking for magnificent beaches, luxurious hotels, luxury yachts, plenty of comfort food and unending watersports the Bahamas has you covered.
The major drawcard over the last few years has been the incredible Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island. This 5-star resort is perfect for families with so much on offer for the kids including a 141-acre water park and marine habitat. Of course, the adults haven’t been forgotten either with tennis courts, a golf course, 21 restaurants, and 19 bars. Also with gambling being legal in the Bahamas, it seems like every major hotel has its own casino.
One of the attractions that we were keen to check out was the Dolphin Experience. Having just watched the controversial documentary Black Fish, I was a little hesitant about visiting this marine center located just off Paradise Island on a blue lagoon.
Again I want to give this experience the attention that it deserves so I will be writing a full post outlining our private tour around the facilities in a future post. For now, let me say it was one of the best animal encounters I have ever had and I assure you that these animals are well taken care of in a wonderful environment. Lisette was even lucky enough to get in and swim with the original star of the movie Flipper.
One of the best meals we had in Nassau was at Frankie Gone Bananas. This local restaurant is situated in Fish Fry, a small square of Bahamian restaurants just to the west of downtown. You can take a local 24-seater bus from Cable Beach or downtown for the bargain price of $1.25 each way.
The staple food in the Bahamas is the conch (pronounced conk). The best way to have it is as deep-fried conch fritters or in a conch salad. I would describe the taste as similar to calamari. Fish Fry is a great place for dinner, with a decent selection of restaurants and bars serving fresh food. One warning is to be patient though – service in the Bahamas is notoriously slow, as we found. Also be aware that the majority of restaurants (except Frankie Gone Bananas and Twin Brothers) don’t have a restroom, although there is a public toilet just across the road.
When in paradise, drink a tropical cocktail! Anything with rum is acceptable here but the Bahama Mama was our cocktail of choice on this trip. Here is the recipe – Bahama Mama Recipe.
The main reason we chose to visit the Bahamas was for the Junkanoo festival that happens on Boxing Day and New Year's Day in the early hours of the morning. For the first parade, we made a rookie mistake and arrived waaaay too early at around 7 pm. We went and purchased our tickets for the bleachers and met our new best buddy Geron.
Geron is a local Bahamian who was working at the Junkanoo ticket sales office and he was so amazingly helpful to us. He gave us all the tips for where to sit, explained everything I needed to know about the festival for my Fest300 article, and even went so far as to generously give us tickets for the New Year parade.
Keep an eye out for my next post which will be a photo journal from both Junkanoo parades, including a video I am currently editing. If you happen to be in the Bahamas over the Christmas/ New Year period I strongly suggest that you check out Junkanoo as it was the best carnival parade I have ever been to.
If you want to get close to more marine life, the Bahamas is also a great place for snorkeling or scuba diving. We flew to another island, Grand Bahama, and stayed in the main town, Freeport. There, Lisette spent one afternoon diving, where she checked out a little wreck, and saw a lot of fish and a ray – but the highlight was a close encounter with a black tip shark, which came close enough to pat and smile at. If you’re lucky, you can see anything from a lemon, bull, tiger, hammerhead, Caribbean reef, silky, nurse, or black tip shark. You never know what could suddenly appear from the deep…
There are multiple dive shops all offering the chance to swim with or even see shark feeding. We chose a small operator – Jerry and Presley have been running Caribbean Divers in Freeport for 13 years. While there are only two of them doing everything from driving you to/from the hotel, helping you suit up in scuba gear and taking you out on the dive, they were incredibly knowledgeable, professional, and reliable the entire time. And it made for a much more memorable and personal experience swimming with only four other people.
When our trip had come to an end we were both pretty tired and started to prepare ourselves for getting back into the daily routine that we had left behind. Unfortunately, the story doesn’t end there….
On arrival at the airport for our flight home, we were told that the flight was delayed. First just a little, then an hour, and finally when it did arrive they discovered a flat tire so ended up canceling the flight altogether. Right about this time we had been watching the news reports of a massive blizzard that was due to sweep across the east coast of America.
To cut a long story short we were given a hotel voucher and some food vouchers and told to come back the next day. Luckily I had a friend at United who helped rebook us via Newark. By the time we arrived in Newark, the snow had started and we were getting worried we wouldn’t make it home. Fortunately, after nearly two days of stunted travel we were sitting in first class (got an upgrade) and en route home, with memories of the paradise we had just left.
Want to see more pictures from our trip? Read this: Junkanoo Festival Photo Journal
Teaching English as a Second Language is an undeniably great way for aspiring travelers to both fund their travels and experience a new culture in an intimate way without spending a fortune.
Rather than spending a year or two saving up money to get you on the road, many schools around the world go so far as to pay for your flight and accommodation in addition to your salary – making it a lucrative way to really immerse yourself in a country you might not otherwise have gone.
China has undergone a truly massive boom in demand for English teachers, and this means that potential teachers are almost spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing their employer, their location, and even the kind of teaching they’d like to do.
Where South Korea (a country I also spent two years teaching in) has begun to prefer inexperienced (and therefore lower-paid teachers) and offers little real opportunity for advancement within a company, many Chinese companies are desperate for experienced teachers who wish to move up the ladder into supervisory or training roles.
Whether you’re working with young kids for companies such as American Eagle, Disney English, or First Leap; preparing teens for life abroad at an IELTS training school; shaping bright young minds at a university, or teaching corporate English for one of the many global companies that call China home – there’s a real variety of teaching opportunities available that you won’t find elsewhere.
With demand dwindling in traditional ESL markets such as Japan and South Korea, China is bursting with schools both large and small looking to hire a native speaker. While a Bachelor’s Degree is technically still required to get the teaching visa, there’s no shortage of schools willing to bend the rules and turn a blind eye if it means securing the status symbol that is a native speaker.
While opinions on the massive influx of laowei (foreigners) are understandably divided, China affords you the opportunity to lead the kind of lifestyle you might not have ever imagined possible when you graduated with that degree in theater or international relations.
In the space of two years in China I took on roles such as actor & screenwriter for a Chinese sitcom, marketer, events planner, tutor, cricket player, model, and token white guy. It’s hard to walk the streets of one of the country’s less cosmopolitan cities without being stopped for a half dozen photos with excited locals – even if you’ve got an ugly mug like mine!
I had friends who were contestants on game shows or anchors on English language TV, friends who modeled, friends who were paid to wear suits and stand at parties, and everything in between; and while I certainly felt this ‘celebrity culture’ in South Korea and other countries, I can’t think of many other places in Asia where being white can be such a lucrative little earner on the side.
China is so much more than bustling metropolises like Shanghai and Beijing. So many tours of China are little more than stops in those two massive cities with a side detour to Xi’an to see the Terra Cotta Warriors, and it’s a crying shame. In a country larger than the continent of Australia, there’s a wealth of amazing places to explore.
Head west and you’ll find the predominantly Muslim province of Xinjiang; a region with its own rich cultural history that even today vies for independence from the Han-dominated Chinese Communist Party. In the south, the jungles of Yunnan offer you the opportunity to see the mountain temples and sweeping vistas that inspired Kung Fu Panda, and in the icy north where the country borders Russia, you’ll find another experience altogether. Tropical Hainan in the far south, Portuguese-influenced Macau, the pristine mountains of Tibet, and the picturesque mountains of Anhwe (the setting for Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon) are all right on your doorstep.
Travel within China is ridiculously cheap. The country is connected by a vast network of buses, trains, and cheap air carriers that make holidaying within the country very affordable if you can handle the ever-present crowds of locals. While the country has yet to fully embrace the backpacking concept and the hostels that support it, hotels are cheap and ever-present.
Even when heading farther afield, China’s proximity to South East and East Asia as well as its growing demand for tourist escapes means that it’s possible to holiday abroad for a fraction of what you might play to start your trek from Australia, New Zealand, or the US.
China is an almost universally misunderstood country, and I found many of my preconceptions about the nation shattered within my first few weeks in the country. Much like South Korea, China is in the midst of a nationwide shift that sees it struggling to embrace lucrative western concepts while staying true to its ancient roots.
Contrary to popular belief, China is not a Communist country – something I had to explain to virtually everybody I spoke to from back home. Capitalism is alive and well in the country as it turns an eye towards world domination via finance rather than strength of arms. Designer labels abound in the wealthier eastern cities, and foreign trends such as the NBA, the Big Bang Theory, and even Game of Thrones are becoming part of the local pop culture.
At the same time, there’s a desire to cling to China’s own unique identity. It is a country where you can shop in a high-end mall on a Saturday and spend your Sunday afternoon taking in an idyllic rice paddy still being tended by weathered old ladies; where a Backstreet Boys concert can occur just a block from a park where dozens of locals practice Ti Chi as the sunsets.
The farther from Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou you travel – the easier it is to see China as it was just a scant few decades ago. While the east coast scurries to match it with the rest of the world financially and industrially, there’s still an abundance of remote villages, isolated temples, and distinct cultures (China boasts dozens of racial groups in addition to the ruling and predominant Han).
While it’s true that China’s rapid industrialization (not to mention events such as the Cultural Revolution and the ill-fated Great Leap Forward) has done a great deal of damage to China’s ancient sites and long history, it is still possible to gain a glimpse into one of the most long-lived cultures in the world.
It might seem that the crowded streets of spitting, smartphone touting, personal space invading cities like Shanghai or Beijing are the norm – but that couldn’t be farther from the truth. While China is making massive leaps forward in trying to turn much of the country into cookie-cutter cities full of sky-rise apartments and factories, much of the country still exists as it did before its doors were re-opened to the west.
Hiking in Jiuzhaigou National Park high in the mountains of northern Sichuan allows you to appreciate the immense natural beauty that the country still possesses even as air pollution and over-population threaten it in some areas.
A trip to the aforementioned Xinjiang is akin to traveling to an entirely new country, so different are its dusty streets and Central Asian-inspired architecture from the towering skyscrapers of the east.
China is still the land of Kung Fu and Tiger Leaping Gorge; of jade serpents and tea ceremonies – you just have to look beyond the more westernized cities.
Chinese history is more than just these old ideas of what China is. A visit to Nanjing will show you the immense tragedy that the nation endured during World War II, while Shanghai’s own diverse history is still on display as you move through the various concessions that the nation once made to foreign powers such as France (the French Concession) and the United Kingdom (The Bund).
In Hainan there is a distinct Russian influence, while Yunnan shares a great deal in common with neighboring Vietnam. Hong Kong still clings desperately to its British roots where Macau is a fascinating blend of Chinese and Portuguese influences. The Northern provinces boast Mongolian and even North Korean influences as well, making for a fascinating melting pot of differing cultural ideals, traditions, and (I didn’t forget about Chinese food) cuisines. Not a fan of the greasy Jiangsu cuisine? Head over to spice-obsessed Hunan (home of Chairman Mao), the seafood of Qingdao, or the perhaps more familiar tastes of Cantonese food.
Want to learn more about how you can get started teaching English in China? Check out our guide Teaching English Abroad, which just happens to be co-written by Chris.
The Running of the Bulls is a must-see for many tourists that involves running in front of six bulls and a number of steers that have been let loose, on a course through the streets of Pamplona. The running in Pamplona – Spain is the most famous running locally known as San Fermin, although there are other runnings held in towns and villages across Spain, Portugal, and in some cities in Mexico and southern France, during the summer. Unlike bullfights, which are performed by professionals, anyone may participate in an encierro.
According to the Spanish, the running first began in North-eastern Spain during the early 14th century. While transporting cattle in order to sell at the market, men would attempt to speed the process by hurrying their cattle using tactics of fear and excitement. After years of this practice, the transportation and hurrying began to turn into a competition, as young adults would attempt to race in front of the bulls and make it safely to their pens without being overtaken. When the popularity of this practice increased and was noticed more and more by the expanding population of Spanish cities, a tradition was created and stands to this day.
The celebration is dedicated to Pamplona’s very own Saint Fermin, who was killed one morning back in the 4th century by bulls that dragged him through the streets of the old town, reportedly after a few too many sangrias.
While the excitement and hype of this event draws thousands of tourists each year injuries are common and participants are often gored or trampled by the bulls, whose hooves grip poorly on the paved or cobbled street surfaces.
To enter you must be over eighteen and “get in” before 7:30 am. It is against the rules to run under the influence of alcohol, although most of the participants I see have rocked up after a massive night of partying and are clearly under the weather. Really the only other rule is that you mustn’t run in the opposite direction of the running (but seriously who would want to do that).
A double wooden fence is used along the course where the streets permit, while in other parts the buildings of the street act as barriers. The idea is that there is just enough room for a person to slide through but not enough for a bull. Some of the fences are permanent fixtures for the entire 9 days while others are mounted and dismounted every morning.
I have arrived the night before day 2 and already the town is buzzing with excitement. I have driven my car here from San Sebastian and find it extremely difficult to get a parking spot for the day so I can look for a place to stay…yea that’s right I didn’t book a room.
After searching all day for a bed unsuccessfully, I am forced to sleep in the car tonight. It’s a looooong night…..
When dawn finally breaks I am up and strolling through the streets. To my surprise, there are thousands of drunken people still wandering about from the night before… I wonder if they will make up a portion of the runners.
Having researched a little about the running I position myself nicely on top of a gate at the second turn. This turns out to be a great spot indeed! Before the runners can enter the course the officials hose down the streets to wash away the filth (a combination of alcohol and pee).
The anticipation builds as we draw closer to the start and I can see the nerves appearing on the faces of the runners as they jockey for position along the course in front of me. The first rocket is set off at 8 am to alert the runners that the corral gate is open. A second rocket signals that all six bulls and six steers have been released.
At first, the collective crowd slowly edges forward but it’s not too long before there are people sprinting past me and I catch a glimpse of the first of the six bulls. Along with the bulls, there are a number of steers, whose primary function is to keep the pack moving forward and prevent any of the bulls from turning. On this occasion, however, they fail and one of the bulls has turned and I watch as it lines up a young guy and pins him to the barrier. It’s one of those train crash moments where you can’t look away but his screams confirm his severe injuries.
After the event, I go and take a look at the carnage from the incident and you can see from the picture the two distinct gore holes where the bull has pinned the guy. There is also a lot of blood on the ground….. I decide at this moment not to run tomorrow.
Without a doubt, this is one festival not to be missed!
After a two-year hiatus, I will add another country to my list of visited destinations at the end of this year. That’s right we are off to the Bahamas over the Christmas and New Year break and I couldn’t be happier.
Lisette and I had been throwing around a few ideas over the last couple of months on where would be best to go and finally decided on the tropical paradise that is the Bahamas.
1. Costa Rica – For an eco-friendly trip and to catch the San Jose Carnival
2. Miami – For the beaches and the amazing New Year's Eve Parties
3. Oaxaca – For the culture and Night of the Radishes Festival
4. Jamaica – For an all-inclusive resort and relaxation (no festival)
5. The Bahamas – For the beaches, diving, food, culture, and the Junkanoo Festival
The Bahamas came out on top since I was able to pick up some reasonably priced flights with United Air and managed to score a great deal on accommodation. Ended up splitting the time between Freeport on the island of Grand Bahama and Nassau on the island of New Providence.
Now all we have to do is wait a few months to enjoy these gorgeous white sandy beaches while sipping on a colorful cocktail with a miniature umbrella in it. Hopefully we get to check out a beach like the one below:
One of the activities we always like to throw in whenever we travel to a tropical island is scuba diving. Lisette has completed her PADI certification and has dived the Great Barrier Reef, Borneo, the Philippines, and Bali to name a few.
Me on the other hand, well I struggle with claustrophobia which limits my diving ability. Will have to see how I go when we arrive since my previous attempt off Boracay didn’t go so well.
Another exciting consideration is booking a Bahamas fishing charter to add a thrill to this island adventure.
What we are both really excited about is the Junkanoo Festival on both Boxing Day and New Year's Day. This carnival-like parade through the streets happens throughout the country on each of the islands with the largest parade being in Nassau.
The origin of the word “Junkanoo” is rather obscure. Some people believe it comes from the French “L’inconnu” which means “the unknown,” in reference to the masks worn by the paraders. Junkanoo may have West African origins, as the costumes and conduct of the masqueraders bear similarities with the Yoruba Egungun festivals.
It is believed that this festival began during the 16th and 17th centuries. The slaves in The Bahamas were given a special holiday around Christmas time when they would be able to leave the plantations to be with their family and celebrate the holidays with African dance, music, and costumes.
One of the most unusual festivals in Japan is the naked festival (Hadaka Matsuri). Okay, so the participants aren’t completed nude, but picture this: tens of thousands of Japanese men with little more than a white loincloth (G-string or thong style) draped around their erm, loins, running crazily through the streets of the city to the main temple. The aim: trying to touch yet another naked guy who has been shaved of all body hair a few days before. To top it all off, this event takes place in February, one of the coldest winter months in Japan.
Before you think that this is some sort of bizarre and freaky version of the Full Monty, the festival has its origins in an attempt to dispel the plague and ward off evil spirits. Today, to cleanse themselves from such evil, one man – called the shin-otoko (literally “god man”) is chosen to take on the ills of the community. In preparation for what is considered to be a great honor, the god man must undergo fairly intense purification rites in the days leading to the event.
On the big day, teams of (rather drunk) thong-clad men lug a bamboo pole and continually shout “Wasshoi! Wasshoi!” as they snake their way through the streets to the temple. It’s quite a sight to see so many scantily clad men stumbling around in freezing temperatures, particularly in contrast to the layers of clothing worn by everyone else.
Once the men arrive at the temple, there is a fair wait until the shin-otoko arrives. The anticipation and frenzy build in the temple, however, as more and more teams of men arrive. As a spectator, it’s just as crowded trying to see what’s happening in the temple compound, but you can make out special bodyguards splashing icy water on the naked mass of men as the shin-otoko comes closer and as the crowd furiously fights and push to touch him.
As part of the festivities, at midnight, the lights are turned off and the temple priests hurl a couple of sacred wands (shingi) into the darkness. The men who catch these sticks apparently receive a year’s worth of good luck. Who wouldn’t want that?
The festival is held in various cities throughout Japan, however, the most famous is in Okayama prefecture, in western Japan (next to the Hiroshima region). It costs about 5,000 yen to get a good seat in the temple compound if you’re keen to be a spectator. Wasshoi!
I have been living in San Francisco for just over a year now and it really has been an incredible experience. The food selection is amazing, the people are friendly and interesting and there is nearly always something cool going on around town…. but…. I really miss having a warm summer.
Summer here typically consists of two months of relatively warm and clear weather from late September through November. This is really the only time you can safely head out in shorts and a tee.
To combat this lack of summer warmth we have been told to venture out of the city for weekends away as the temperature changes dramatically with only a 30-minute drive or more.
So we recently took this advice, rented a cheap car, and set off for sunny Santa Cruz which lies approximately 80 miles (128 kilometers) to the south of San Francisco.
The journey is around two hours but the drive itself was quite spectacular as we took the slower route along the coast down highway 1. Luckily for us, the weather was very clear, (normally a lot of fog as you exit the city) so the views were well worth the extra few minutes of driving.
There is a plethora of accommodation in Santa Cruz to cater to the influx of weekend warriors coming from the Bay area. The majority is made up of budget-style motels and they all seem to be located within a mile or so of the Beach Boardwalk.
For those seeking a more comfortable stay, Beachnest Vacation Rentals offers the finest assortment of vacation rentals and beach house rentals in Santa Cruz and nearby areas.
The majority of tourists seem to come to Santa Cruz specifically for the beaches and the historic Beach Boardwalk. It is surprising how often an advertisement will come on in San Francisco with their catchy tune but obviously works well.
Opened in 1907 the Beach Boardwalk is California’s oldest surviving amusement park and one of the few seaside parks on the West Coast of the United States.
The Boardwalk features both modern and classic rides, carnival games, restaurants, miniature golf, video game arcades, and family bowling, all located on a mile of sandy beach. One of the best things about the Boardwalk is that entry is free, of course, this doesn’t include any of the rides or games but is a great way to check out the park and decide if you want to go on any of the rides. Ride tickets cost anywhere from $3 – $5 and they also offer affordable ticket options where you can get a season pass for $69.95 which includes unlimited ride entry.
One of the main attractions of the park is the Giant Dipper. This classic wooden roller coaster was first opened in 1924 and recently surpassed a whopping 60 million visitors. It is a bone-shaking experience from start to finish but one that will definitely leave a big smile on your face.
Just off the coastline of Santa Cruz lies the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, the largest national marine sanctuary in the United States. Encompassing 276 miles of shoreline and 6,094 square miles of ocean it is home to one of the most diverse marine ecosystems on the planet, hosting marine mammals, seabirds, fish, invertebrates and amazing kelp forests that the local otters call home.
One of our favorite activities is to get out on the water in a kayak and Lisette and I always jump at any opportunity to do so. We decided that this time, rather than just grab a rental, it would be great to join a tour. After a quick search online I found Kayak Connection, a local business with great reviews that did both rentals and ocean tours through the marine park.
On the morning of our tour, our guide David greeted us with a big smile and thoroughly explained the safety aspects along with a brief on some of the marine animals that we would potentially see out on the water. We were lucky to have a gorgeous blue sky with very little wind as we set off paddling from Santa Cruz Harbor.
David was extremely passionate about the conservation of this protected area which was reflected in his enthusiastic approach to teaching us about the tainted history of over-fishing in the bay as we paddled through the harbor entry including how the otter population was nearly wiped out.
The area is a playground for whales, dolphins, and other marine life and we had only just cleared the harbor mouth when we were greeted by a friendly harbor seal. After an enjoyable paddle across the bay with spectacular views of the boardwalk and pier we arrived at the local surf spot, Steamer’s Lane. Here we watched a number of sea otters playing among the kelp. There were two in particular that were very inquisitive and swam right towards our kayak….amazing!!
On the paddle back we passed by the pier where hundreds of sea lions basking in the warmth of the sun on the wooden foundations. One even swam out to greet us and followed close behind for a while as we head back to the harbor.
Overall this was an incredibly memorable experience and one I would strongly recommend to anyone looking for an eco-friendly adventure.
The Redwood Canopy Tours at Mount Hermon offers visitors an exciting eco-adventure into the redwood canopy of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Enjoy the coastal redwood forest from the unique perspective only a zipline canopy tour can offer. The two-hour guided tour includes six zip lines and two sky bridges at heights of up to 150 feet. Each tour of up to eight is led by two certified guides who share their ecological knowledge and bring the history of the Santa Cruz redwood forest to life. The Redwood Canopy Tours are the original canopy tour ziplines in the redwood forest and is the first facility of its kind in the region.
Of course, if you are coming to Santa Cruz you are more than likely going to be here for the beaches and Boardwalk but here are a couple of other attractions you might like to check out while you are in the Santa Cruz area: The Mystery Spot and the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum.
We were looking for somewhere interesting to eat on Saturday night and happened to stumble across The Greek – Authentic Cuisine restaurant (with a little help from Yelp). This family-run establishment is apparently quite iconic in Santa Cruz due to the lively owner Vasilis and coincidentally it turned out to be his 64th birthday on the night that we were there.
The restaurant has a fun and lively feel with traditional Greek live music, plates smashing on the floor and a homely feel to the decor. Sara, our waitress, noted that Vasilis's hand-sketched all of the artwork that adorns the walls….quite impressive we thought.
The meal portions were very generous so we decided to go with the smaller size house specialty salad along with some dolmathes and tzatziki for starters. All in all the food was delicious and well worth checking out if you plan on visiting Santa Cruz.
Ivrea is a small city in the province of Turin, in the northwest of Italy. While it’s not heaving with tourist attractions, there is one time of the year when the town is overrun with visitors – the quirky Ivrea Carnival (Carnevale di Ivrea), otherwise known as the Battle of the Oranges.
In February, thousands of the city’s citizens congregate in the town center to throw one of the world’s greatest food fights using – you guessed it – oranges. Held over three days – Sunday to Fat Tuesday – during this festival, the streets are all lit up and filled with the smells of oranges and other food specialties, which are being served in the streets. On the Sunday, people are served beans for free – perfect for filling you up without you needing to spend a cent.
While the history of the festival isn’t clear, the festivity apparently commemorates the city’s rebellion against a local duke in the 12th century. The duke attempted to rape a miller’s daughter on the eve of her wedding. His plan was foiled when the young woman beheaded him and the populace then burned his palace.
Every year a young girl is chosen to play the role of the brave young woman, named Violetta. Today carriages represent the duke’s guard, while the orange throwers are the revolutionaries. Originally beans are used then apples that are being thrown, but later in the 19th-century oranges started to be used, which (rather morbidly) represent the duke’s chopped off head.
There are nine combat teams that throw oranges at each other during the festival. You can volunteer to join one of the teams to throw oranges. You will also see a load of red hats, which symbolizes freedom. Anyone that wears a red hat cannot throw oranges – but you also won’t be a target of a flying fruit either.
By far though, the best way to have fun is to join the food fight in the battle areas. The carriage takes turns to enter the battle zone and the horses hang around for a while at the center, to then be surrounded by unarmored orange-throwing people in medieval costumes. The person in the carriage also throws back oranges to the mob below.
Being pelted with oranges that feel like frozen golf balls may not be everyone’s idea of fun, but the event ends with a ceremony to announce the winners of the battle and an awesome bonfire in the center of the city. Be sure to also check out the river after the battle, which carries tons of used oranges back downstream.
Two days ago, after almost a week of going back and forth, I started the haunting journey to Poveglia Island, the island of no return. A small island off Venice, Poveglia has one twisted history – it was a dumping ground for diseased bodies on the several occasions that Venice was gripped by the bubonic plague, with about 160,000 infants and adults meeting their grisly fate by being thrown into huge bonfires or pits. In the 1920s, a mental hospital was built on the island and according to folklore, the doctor tortured and killed his patients until he was finally thrown from the bell tower. He apparently survived but was strangled by a strange mist that came out of the ground.
This particular goal of traveling to Poveglia was FAR from easy for me. As I child I was haunted by horrific nightmares that would keep me up all night or send me running to the safety of my parents’ bed more times than I care to remember. As a result, I’ve yet to even watch a horror film from start to finish. After sitting through paranormal activity (covering my eyes for the last ten minutes), I spent the next week avoiding my basement like the plague. You could say that when it comes to the things that go bump in the night, I react about as well as the cowardly lion. But at the end of the day, this was something I needed to do and I wasn’t backing down.
Getting to the island was surprisingly easy. I decided that paying 180 Euros for the short boat ride was far too much and went out in search of a better deal. Shockingly the first captain I talked to was willing to make the trek for only 130. After reading countless stories online about the locals who refused to approach this place and the amount of time other people had invested in finding a soul brave enough to take them there, I was convinced I was going to be in for much more of a fight.
When we got to the island and I watched him pull away, things didn’t really hit me the way I thought they would. Being 30 degrees outside, sunny and watching the hundreds of boats zooming by, it wasn’t exactly haunting. Even the mental institution, while admittedly spooky, lost some of its “charm” in the cloudless sky above.
All of this changed when the boat motors quietened and darkness fell. Being without a flashlight, headlamp, or torch I was at the mercy of the shadows and the looming silence that gripped me. Laying 10 feet from the institution I was frozen in place, afraid that even the slightest sound would wake the dead. My mind became a slave to the various creaks and moans of the building, working overtime and twisting my imagination like a drug-induced hallucination. It was all too much for me, but I had nowhere to run. I grabbed my pack and bolted to the dock about 50 feet away praying for rescue, but I was imprisoned and escape was impossible. I slumped down on the dock and tried to calm myself, but there was no way in hell I was going be to my original resting place. The thought of the 160,000 burning bodies and the evil doctor was too much to overcome. So I slid into my sleeping bag on the dock and prayed for the sweet embrace of a dreamless sleep to bring me safely to morning. But sleep wouldn’t come. No amount of ambiance would have helped me in this situation; I was at the mercy of my surroundings and all I could do was take whatever the island decided to throw at me. For the next seven hours, I stayed completely still with my eyes and ears wide open and my brain conjuring up horrible scenarios surrounding my untimely death at the hands of the living dead.
But I never faced death in the face, never saw any demons, and never shook hands with the doctor. The sun rose just as it always has and with the return of my water taxi, I was brought promptly back to the world of the living unscathed and unchanged. Would I ever go back to the island and do it all over again? Hell no. Do I still believe in ghosts? Yes. I may not have seen or heard any, but the overwhelming sense of evil that seeped into your bones inside that old broken-down hospital would be enough to convert even the hardest skeptic.
This is the third and final part of a series of posts on my experiences at my first ever Burning Man. If you missed the first two parts you can read them here:
Part 1: Burning Man – From a First-Timer’s Perspective
Part 2: Burning Man – Art, Theme Camps and More
Think for a moment about the best places in the world to party and I’m sure a few standouts come to mind. The top of my list would probably look something like this: Ibiza, Miami, Koh Phangan, Rio de Janeiro, Las Vegas or Cancun to name but a few. Well, take a piece of all of those places, put them in a blender, mix thoroughly and you are somewhat close to the day/ night-time party experience of Burning Man.
I don’t think I will even begin to do this explanation justice but I will give it a shot….
– Some of the best DJ’s in the world
– Incredible venues with mind-blowing sound systems and lighting
– Genuinely nice people who are there to have a good time (not to spoil yours)
– No lining up for hours to get into a club
– No discriminative dress codes – WEAR WHATEVER YOU LIKE!
– Not feeling the music or crowd? Hop on your bike and pedal to the next one, or jump on an art car (no painful taxi line in this place)
– No wanky bouncers…. in fact, no bouncers at all
– No expensive cover charge – just wander in for free
– Free drinks at the bar! Just remember to bring your own drinking vessel (cup)
– No curfew or lockout
Ok I’m sure I have missed out on a few bullet points but seriously with benefits like these who cares!
When you consider that Burning Man is quite possibly the most epic party place you will ever visit, then realize this is only one facet of the complete experience, it is difficult to comprehend. I have a feeling this is why so many Burners return, year after year, to the desert.
One of the things I seem to get asked most since our return is about the drug culture that seems to be synonymous with Burning Man.
If you are going to take them, be discreet, and whatever you don’t go lighting up a joint in public. This is not San Francisco people…. the Nevada police don’t take kindly to drugs (or even open alcohol containers) in public.
So with that out-of-the-way, there’s really no amount of words that can describe what a crazy, fun experience the parties are at Burning Man. So rather than try, here are some cool pics to whet your appetite instead:
As I mentioned in my original post, knowing what clothes to pack is up there among the most challenging aspects when preparing for your first Burning Man. Sure, you can look at hundreds of pictures online and get a feeling for what others have worn in the past, but there will always be that aching feeling of “Will I fit in?” or “Are people going to be judging me based on my attire?”.
I was advised early on to steer clear of any branded clothing. One of the ideals of Burning Man is non-conformity, so try to avoid wearing the clothes that you would normally wear at home in your day-to-day life.
You don’t need to go out and spend hundreds of dollars at costume shops or specialty Op shops to try to fit in either. Go to a secondhand store, buy some crazy stuff that you think looks cool, make some adjustments if needed and you’re off.
All I can say is wear whatever you want to wear. It doesn’t matter if you wear pink striped pants with a blue polka dot shirt – if you like it wear it.
Living in San Francisco we are pretty accustomed to nudity. We see it pretty often at various festivals and events held around the city. Burning Man is like San Francisco on steroids….. everywhere you go be prepared to see a full-frontal display of someone’s package. By the end of the week, you will have seen all shapes, colors, and sizes – both male and female so leave your prudish ways at the gate.
Goggles
Preferably not too tinted and with good peripheral vision
Dust Mask
A bandana doesn’t really cut it in a heavy dust storm
Good shoes
Boots are probably going to be best (flip-flops and bare feet are a no-no due to the alkaline soil)
Sunscreen
Derrr… you are in the desert
A Warm Jacket
It gets cold at night
Wearable Lighting
It also gets very dark at night and you want to be seen
One of the 10 Principles of Burning Man is Gifting – “Burning Man is devoted to acts of gift-giving. The value of a gift is unconditional. Gifting does not contemplate a return or an exchange for something of equal value.”
I was overwhelmed by the thoughtfulness that went into some of the gifts people had prepared. To be honest, I feel like this is where we were the least prepared of all. That is not to say that we were takers and didn’t give….. more so that I would like to invest more into gifting next time.
Generosity comes in all shapes and sizes – the offer of a jalapeno tequila shot one morning…. or perhaps an iceblock on a stinking hot afternoon.
You don’t need to go all-out making material items for gifting too. The gift of a heartfelt smile (to everyone you meet), a friendly massage, a helping hand or food and drinks are all perfectly acceptable when there is sincerity and warmth behind them.
Burning Man really does seem to highlight the aspects we soon forget in human nature… THERE’S GOOD IN EVERYONE!
Here are a couple of fun little trinkets that I was given. The best part for me is that someone took the time to make them.
The roots of Burning Man began as a bonfire ritual on the summer solstice in 1986. Larry Harvey, Jerry James, and a few friends met on Baker Beach in San Francisco to burn a 9ft (2.7m) wooden man as well as a smaller wooden dog.
Since then the annual ritual has grown each year, both in number of participants and in the size of the Man. This year was no exception as we arrived to find a mammoth alien-looking man standing atop a UFO. Inside the multi-story structure, there were all sorts of extraterrestrial paraphernalia, some zoetropes and exit slides…. not the best to attempt with a bare bottom I soon discovered.
The Man is located smack bang in the center of the city which makes it the most important landmark if you happen to get lost out on the playa. Due to this, it is also a popular meeting place.
The week-long event culminates on Saturday evening with the ceremonial burning of the Man. What seemed like the entire city population was out on the playa to watch the spectacle, starting with an inner circle of fire dancers and emanating out to a ring of brightly lit art cars, all circling the Man.
Before the Man burns, there’s a fireworks display which is met with cheers and roars from the eager crowd. Then the man is lit, creating a frenzy of whistles and more screaming before finally the entire structure erupts into flames, the heat so intense you can feel it from a football field away.
In addition to the burning of the Man, the burning of the Temple has become an important ritual on Sunday. Throughout the week you will find people congregating at the temple. Whether in prayer, meditation or simply leaving messages to lost loved ones, the temple is a highly personal and spiritual experience.
Every year, like with the Man, the Temple has a new theme. This year’s theme was The Temple of Whollyness – an epic central pyramid standing 64ft (19.5m) tall, designed with sacred mathematical proportions and constructed using innovative building techniques without the use of nails, glue, or metal fasteners.
The Temple’s name was derived from the idea that spirituality is a balance between three states of mind – to be holy, holey, or wholly present.
Our arrival onto the playa was such a smooth experience with barely a queue to be seen. Our exit on the other hand was not.
We had been tossing around the idea of leaving on Sunday (either just before the temple burn or just after) ‘vs’ leaving on Monday but it was mother nature herself that eventually decided for us. As it turned out there was a huge storm bearing down on Black Rock City that was due to hit by 12 pm on Monday.
The Burning Man committee broadcasted a message over the local radio station advising everyone to leave by 12 pm Monday or face being stuck on the playa as they were locking down the city. This created somewhat of a “mass exodus” just prior to sunset (before the temple was due to burn).
At 6.30 pm, we left our camping spot and joined the exit line. It wasn’t until five hours later that we reached the paved road in total darkness. By this time, I was already far too fatigued to be driving but stupidly I continued on for another 2.5hrs while the others slept in the back of the RV.
Luckily I was able to switch out with Ryan about 40 mins from Reno and we arrived there in one piece around 3 am.
It is not uncommon to experience a low after returning from a multi-day festival. As you should see by now, Burning Man is a place unlike any other and the transition back to reality can be a difficult one for some people. Luckily for us, we live among Burners….. our neighbors have been more than seven times each and there are several “post Burning Man” events held in San Francisco every year.
The reality still hits you hard though. That first day back where all you can do is dream of being on the playa. For now, I am happy processing and writing about this unforgettable experience that was my first Burning Man…….. anyway there’s always next year!
I hope that, in some way, my experiences can help you to get out there yourself. Thanks for reading all my rantings and a special thanks to my neighbors Lorna and Bertrand for your words of wisdom and everything else you have done to make our first Burn so very special.
