No one can visit this bite-sized country and not be changed by it. As the temple hub of the world, tourists are arriving fast and furious. Cambodia is a country that is firmly putting its past behind to embrace the 21st century. It is emerging as a vibrant, exciting tourist travel destination, offering an opportunity to step back into ancient history, get off the beaten track into a lush yet unpredictable rural countryside, and to immerse in a kind and charming culture.
Known as the Land of Smiles, Cambodia’s gentle culture is influenced by Theravada Buddhism practiced by the bulk of its population. Angkor Wat, the ancient temple at the heart of a sprawling, monumental complex of stone block structures in Angkor, is a testimony to the power of the Khmer kingdom, which peaked during the 11th century.
You can travel cheaply in Cambodia, sleep reasonably comfortably and eat well. Or you can live it up in the lap of luxury and dine in restaurants to rival the best in other Asian capitals.. It is pretty easy to fly in and out but not so from province to province. Major infrastructure connecting the dots on the map is still deficient and some roads flood. During the wet season, travel by boat on the country’s 150kms of waterways is the way to go. Landlines for telephones are still lacking but a cell phone is pretty cheap. Internet cafes have sprouted up like little mushrooms, and are starting to appear in outlying areas.
Unspoiled mountainous forests, ornate stone temples more than 1000 years old, idyllic islands and unspoiled beaches – these are the makings of a dream vacation. And it is, but some common sense will prevent headaches later. Medical insurance is not only prudent but also crucial; check that the coverage extends to emergency evacuations.
Charming as Cambodia is, its hospitals are not up to international standards and critical cases have to be evacuated to Bangkok or Singapore. Arm yourself adequately with the appropriate medication or be pre-armed with vaccinations especially if you are going off the beaten track. Remember that land mines are still a problem in unexplored areas.
Get your Cambodian visa sorted out before you leave. Unlike other visas, this visa type can be applied for online and will be sent to you by email.
Cambodia has a classic tropical monsoon climate. Temperatures range from 21 to 35°C, although they can exceed 40°C in the steamy month of April. There are two distinct seasons. The rainy months are from May to October when the southwest monsoons bring rains from the Gulf of Thailand and the Indian Ocean. It is hot and humid during these months and the heaviest rains kick in between September and October. Total annual rainfall ranges between 100-150cms, with as much as 130-190cms falling in the Tonle Sap and Mekong basins.
The dry season is from November to March when the northeast monsoon blows. Temperatures can fall to the low 20s in the cool months of December and January when there is little rainfall, low humidity, light breezes, and cool evenings. This is the peak tourist season for the temples and the beaches. Temperatures creep up in February with short ”mango” showers in the afternoon.
From March to May, the “mango” showers become more frequent and intense in the afternoon. River and lake levels are low and water travel can be difficult. Temperatures peak in April and in inland areas like Siem Reap, they average mid to upper 30ºs C with more intense sun and rising humidity.
Between June to August, the days are hot and wet, with the predictable afternoon and evening rains lasting for a few hours, providing some relief from the high humidity. Some consider this a desirable time to visit the Angkor temples as the moats and barays are full and the jungles lush and green. Rains are more frequent in the coastal areas and roads can get flooded.
The monsoon rains are still fast and furious in September and are completely over by the end of October. Temperatures hover around the 30ºs C but are not as stifling as in the hot months of April and May.
Carrying a stack of US dollar bills is necessary as that really is the currency of trade. Even the visa fees and departure taxes are paid in US dollars. The Cambodian currency, the riel, is relatively stable to the US dollar so the tourist does not have to worry about a rapidly inflating local currency.
Shopping is fun and there is a reasonable range of antiques. Just remember you cannot export pre-Angkor and Angkorian antiques as that is considered looting. However, local creativity is well at work here. In a revival of ancient techniques for stone sculpture, wood carvings and ceramics, you can now buy a beautifully reproduced Buddha head or stone carving, or a bust of the Angkor kingdom’s greatest king. Be tempted by the silver, but also be vigilant as to how pure it is, and whether it is really silver.
Support the local artists and artisans. Many of them would be jobless but for these vocational skills picked up at dedicated training centers. Shop Cambodian should be the mantra, as the tourist dollar really goes a very long way. Bargaining is a part of life but bear in mind that many of these people live on less than US$0.50 a day. Be part of the sport but be gentle.
For a mix of Khmer culture outside of ancient ruins and the ubiquitous karaoke bar, a budding art scene is complemented by a fast-growing number of art galleries. Attempts to fuse the traditional with the street culture are giving rise to interesting music and rock operas.
There is magic in Cambodia and as a tourist, you want to travel responsibly and make sure that there is more of the country to re-visit. Tipping is not part of their culture but the extra money is appreciated; good etiquette is probably just as well appreciated. Learning a few words of Cambodian might be useful in getting better prices at the stores. Relax and enjoy the ride through a magical country.
Cambodia is generally a safe and friendly country, with the usual exception for large cities late at night, particularly, and unobserved luggage or wallets. Bag snatching, even from those on bicycles and motorcycles, is a problem in Phnom Penh. Be discreet with your possessions, especially cash and cameras, and as always, take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas.
Intending visitors should be aware that the rule of law in Cambodia is inconsistently applied. Crimes usually require bribes to be investigated, and if perpetrators are wealthy or connected to the government they will often be untouchable by police and courts. You should also be aware that the courts are corrupt, so contracts are hard to enforce without some political leverage. All this being said, the violent crime rate is fairly low, the police are generally friendly and non-threatening, and those with common sense have little to fear.
Unfortunately, Cambodia has gained some notoriety as a destination for pedophiles, but under Cambodian law, the penalty for sex with minors can be up to 30 years in prison, and such tourists may be prosecuted by their home countries as well.
Cambodia suffers from a legacy of millions of land mines left during the war years. However, to tourists, land mines present a minimal to nonexistent threat, as most areas near touristed areas have been thoroughly de-mined. Many tourists mistake electric or sewage warning signs along national highways for land mine signs. HALO Trust, a leading mine removal organization in Cambodia asserts that you would have to drive through the jungle for at least an hour north of Angkor Wat to come across any mines. The threat is to locals in extremely rural areas who rely on subsistence agriculture for their livelihoods.
All that said, in remote areas such as Preah Vihear (near the border) and Pailin (a former Khmer Rouge stronghold), exercise caution: ask for local advice and heed warning signs, red paint, and red rope, which may indicate mined areas. Do not venture beyond well-established roads and paths.
The sprawling megalithic complex of Angkor is no longer Asia’s best-kept secret. Hidden for centuries by jungles, Cambodia’s ancient treasures and far-flung temples are at last emerging. More and more visitors are being lured to explore these mysterious temples and the rich and proud civilization that lived in them.
Angkor Thom, which is Khmer for “Great City” is a fortified city that might have supported one million people in the surrounding region at its height. Built by Angkor’s greatest king, Jayavarman VII, it is laid out in a near-perfect square, which runs north-south and east-west.
The Bayon sits in the exact center of the walled Angkor Thom city, and with its 216 enigmatic stone faces, is as much an icon of the Angkor kingdom in its heyday as Angkor Wat itself.
One of the most popular sites in Angkor, atmospheric Ta Phrom, the Tomb Raider temple, remains very much in the grip of the jungle. Tropical roots as wide as tree trunks split the massive temple stones or grow on top of the temple ramparts. In recent years, underbrush has been cleared and fallen blocks organized into piles.
Phnom Kulen is the holiest mountain in Cambodia. It was here in 802 AD that King Jayavarman declared himself the god-king and broke away from the Java kingdom. This is the birthplace of the Angkor kingdom and modern Cambodia.
This is where it happens at night when the street is blocked to motor traffic, tables are set up on the curbside and the music is cranked several decibels higher. Pub Street is a block away from the Old Market and is lined on both sides with restaurants, offering vast choices of Khmer and international food, and numerous pubs which attract the crowds with their happy hour deals starting around 5 pm.
Psar Chas or the Old Market is a must on every itinerary. Located at the south end of the old French Quarter, it springs to life in the early morning and stays open till dusk.
A 10-minute walk from Psar Chas, the Angkor Night Market tourists a chance to shop at the end of the day. Officially opened in early 2007, it is located at the back of Sivatha Road and has expanded from an original 100 stalls to 170 with a planned maximum capacity of 250 outlets.
Check out what life was like during the Khmer Rouge regime. Here you can see the effects of the millions of land mines that were distributed around the country and meet locals who have lost limbs and loved ones.
The Museum of Genocide speaks of Cambodia’s horridly painful past. Stark exhibits include metal bunks in narrow cells plastered with black and white photos of every prisoner – men, women and children- who were captured. The buildings remain as found, with windows barred with iron and barbed wire, and electric barbed wire around the perimeter.
This was the execution grounds for the Khmer Rouge, who are believed to have brought the prisoners out from S-21 in Phnom Penh. Total numbers killed here vary between 17,000- 20,000 men, women, and children, many of them found bludgeoned to death to save the cost of a bullet.
The Silver Pagoda is also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Its floors are covered with 5,000 gleaming silver tiles, weighing more than 5 tonnes.
A grand red sandstone building designed along classical “colonial Khmer” lines, the National Museum is home to an incomparable collection of Khmer sculpture, pottery and bronzes, ceramics, textiles, and glass, some centuries old.
Distinguished by its classical Khmer architecture, elaborate gilding, rooftop spires, and golden temple nagas, the Royal Palace is the jewel in the crown for the Cambodians and an oasis of peace in the center of busy Phnom Penh.
Set on top of a 27m artificial hill, Wat Phnom is Phnom Penh’s tallest temple and the center of activity during Pchum Ben, the Festival of the Dead. Legend has it that Madam Penh built the temple in 1373 to house six Buddha statues that were washed up by the Mekong River.
The Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach) in Phnom Penh stands in the center of the city at a busy roundabout where Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards intersect. Built in 1958 following the country’s independence from France in 1953, it is a towering lotus-shaped structure modeled on the central tower of Angkor Wat.
Phnom Penh’s lively markets are loud, colorful, crowded and a must on any itinerary. The major ones, Psar Thmei and Psar Tuol Tom Pong are nicely laid out and offer huge choices and money changers who will swap foreign currencies in exchange for loads of Cambodian riels. Here you can sample delicacies such as deep-fried tarantula.
Relax on Sihanoukville beach boasting exquisite white sands and crystal blue waters or alternately take a short trip cycling to Ream Maritime National Park with its untouched mangrove forests, offshore coral reefs, and fishing villages.
This is a great place for snorkeling and scuba diving with the main dive location being at Koh Rong Samloem Island some 20 km offshore.
The Mekong River is a beautiful, mystic river, and an important means of transport in the region. It is rich in natural, cultural, and historical resources that provide enormous potential to explore.
Explore this mighty river by fast boat or river cruise and get a glimpse into the agrarian life of the vibrant life along the river. See the smiles of children as you drift by them playing along the shore (make sure you give them a friendly wave). Sunset along the Mekong is an incredible sight that is not to be missed.
The small town of Kratie lies on the banks of the Mekong River in the northeast of Cambodia. It is famous for the unusual-looking Irrawaddy dolphins that frequent its waters. These rare creatures have been slowly reducing their numbers due to tourism in the area and recent reports estimate that there are only between 60-90 dolphins left in the area.
The Tonle Sap is a combined lake and river system in Cambodia that is also the largest body of water in South East Asia. The Tonle Sap is also home to many ethnic Vietnamese who have emigrated to Cambodia over the last 50 to 100 years, often to the consternation of the native Cambodian population.
Despite the local ethnic tensions the Vietnamese Floating Village on the Tonle Sap in Siem Reap has become one of the area's more popular attractions with tourists touring the area on boats For three days each year the Tonle Sap in Phnom Penh is home to Cambodia’s most famous sporting event.
The Water Festival is held to celebrate the reversal of the waters back into the Mekong and normally takes place in October or November. Millions of people travel from the provinces to Phnom Penh so they can participate in and watch the boat racing. Teams from every province and many villages compete against each other in canoe-style boats that they make themselves and decorate to represent their homeland.
This is the heart of Southeast Asia, with everything the region has to offer packed into one bite-sized country. If you were only planning to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s time to think again.
Clear your mind. Imagine a grain of sand. Multiply that into millions as you grace your ever so delicate toes into the massive landscape you’ve just created. It tingles. It excites you – because it whispers a sense of serenity. It shelters you from stressful thoughts that have burdened you for the past week.
You begin to embrace the feeling. Bit by bit, you relax while basking in the sun. Accompanied by the soothing sounds of nature – it teleports you to your happy place.
The blue sky creates an umbrella for the vast green display – it seduces you to lose yourself in your thoughts. The cool breeze whisks its refreshing tail onto your face tickling your fancy.
This is the life.
Then, you glance at the horizon – you see crystalline blue water. It invites you. After a few seconds, you succumb. Next thing you know, you’re one with Mother Earth’s greatest masterpiece.
It feels surreal and magical. And then you realize it’s not a dream. A place like this really does exist.
Amazing.
This is the effect of a certain island in Cebu – popularly known as Bantayan.
A few years ago, I went to Bantayan Island with my friends to de-stress. We needed a break from work so we booked a flight and took a few days off.
It was one of the best vacations ever. A serene place where you can relax and embrace the beauty of life. There were only a few people on the island which made it more special – it’s as if you’ve fully detached from the hectic lifestyle you’ve been accustomed to.
What’s surprising is that there are a lot of scenic treasures you can enjoy in Cebu – you just have to be ready to embrace the adventure.
A few minutes from the bustling city proper lies a relaxation haven worth visiting. The secluded 11.4 hectare enveloped with distinct plantation architecture radiates class.
Private pools, a man-made lagoon and top-of-the-line amenities with a pinch of local culture will definitely uplift your mood. It’s a must to pick your own adventure by taking the tram or walking the path leading to conceptualized themed areas. While you’re at it, drop by Kilimanjaro Cafe where you can stare at the majestic painting in the ceiling while you dine.
Pool-hop, get sporty, and bask to your heart’s content but never leave the place without experiencing what the Mogambo Springs’ stone-walled sanctuary has to offer.
A historic feat in 1521 marveled the Filipino literature and shaped the Nation. The battle in Mactan where Lapu Lapu spearheaded the defense against Magellan, a Spaniard, continues to inspire and attract tourists worldwide to the scene of the crime.
The majestic statue of Lapu Lapu is a sight to behold. After snapping away, visit Magellan’s Cross – a Christian cross planted by Portuguese and Spanish explorers as ordered by Ferdinand Magellan upon arriving in Cebu.
So what are you waiting for? Grab your camera, shades, steady-chill music and book a flight to one of the hottest destinations in the Philippines!
San Francisco is one of the best (and worst) cities in the world to cycle around. The landscape can vary from extremely steep hills (where you often need to get off your bike and walk) to negotiating electric buses and cable cars to the most friendly, flat bike paths. The climate is another factor that needs to be taken into account as it can change very quickly from blue skies and sunshine to a near-complete fog ‘whiteout’ and a temperature change of 10-15 degrees F.
If you are planning a visit to San Francisco then I would strongly recommend either taking a bike tour or renting a bike for the day. There is a multitude of choices when it comes to hiring a bike in San Francisco but I advise going with one of the more established companies like Bike and Roll. They have locations right across the United States including New York, Washington DC, Chicago, and Miami with a huge offering of bikes to choose from that are all maintained to a very high standard.
We wandered down to their flagship location near Fisherman’s Wharf and chatted to the manager about planning a cool route around the bay. His enthusiasm and knowledge made me feel at ease and we had soon plotted out where to go. The bike hire ranges from about $28 USD a day upwards but if you are strapped for time you can also hire for a couple of hours.
When you hire a bike you are also given a city map with simple instructions on how to navigate your way around, highlighting all the local tourist hot spots. You also get a lock, a bottle of water and the option of a helmet. I suggest that you take the offer of the helmet even though it is not a legal requirement like in other parts of the world….you just never know.
After a quick rundown from one of the friendly bike mechanics we jumped on our hybrid bikes and set off down the road on our little adventure. The traffic along the waterfront was a little intimidating for Lisette at first but she soon realized that we were not in Asia and cars do give way to bikes and pedestrians.
Along the waterfront at Fisherman’s Wharf, there are plenty of seafood restaurants and touristy shops but we were surprised at the number of antique shops. Not quite sure why such a tourist-packed area would cater to this niche but hey it was interesting to see. Our first stop was Ghirardelli Square, home of the famous chocolatier. This place was great and we tasted a few samples before getting back on the road.
From here we rode along the dedicated bike track which would take us all the way along the waterfront past Fort Mason and the Marina to our next stop the Exploratorium. We decided not to venture inside the science museum at this time but had a look around the beautifully kept gardens and massive dome.
After a short time wandering around the grounds we made our way back to the bike track along the waterfront headed north-west towards the Golden Gate Bridge. Our next pit stop was at the Warming Hut Cafe which has a small picnic area. It seemed like a lot of bike riders had the same idea as us because the shop was pretty busy. While we ate our lunch I tried to snap a few pics of the bridge but the fog had really started to roll in which was a little unfortunate (though extremely common).
Fort Point is located right beneath the southern end of the bridge and has a selection of cannons and other memorabilia. We walked about the fort very briskly as the wind had picked up and was icy cold.
It’s a short backtrack before we climb a small hill to make our way onto the Golden Gate bridge. There is a small lookout at the top but the fog really made it quite difficult to take a good shot on this occasion. You will need a little patience to negotiate your way through the crowds of tourists and make sure to keep an eye out while you ride across the bridge. It’s incredible how many people are oblivious to their surroundings and take up the whole shared walkway in their excitement to take a happy snap.
As I mentioned earlier the weather is pretty odd here in San Francisco and on the other side of the bridge, we were greeted with blue skies and sunshine for our downhill glide into the town of Sausalito. Considering how close we still were to the city it felt like we were a world away in a small coastal village. Sausalito is lined with cafes and restaurants and has a holiday feel to it. The riding is flat and there are plenty of cool things to look at.
Most people take the ferry back to San Francisco from Sausalito but we decided to make the longer trek to Tiburon and catch the ferry back from there. This allowed us to ride through the wetlands area of Bothin Marsh Preserve along a series of trails and boardwalks. You will see a variety of birdlife and make sure to check out the houses that have been built on the water.
You really feel like you are miles away from everything and the fresh air makes the extra riding all worthwhile. We rode through the backstreets of Strawberry which is a ritzy suburb in Richardson Bay. Some of the houses looked like they belonged in Hollywood and it was common to see a Ferrari in the driveway.
The roads were nice and quiet all the way until our approach to Tiburon but even on this last stretch, there is a dedicated bike path so it’s easy going.
We had to wait about 15 minutes before the ferry docked but the process was nice and smooth and they guided us to the front of the ferry where there were racks for our bikes. It cost us $10.50 USD for the one-way crossing which is quite reasonable. The crossing was very relaxing, so relaxing in fact that Lisette fell asleep.
The ferry arrived at the main ferry terminal which is located next to Pier One so we still had a short ride back to our starting point. Along the way, we rode past Pier 39 which has a lot of cool things to do and see (though we decided not to hang around and come back another day).
Riding along the Embarcadero you need to look out for lots of traffic as buses, trolleys, cars, and bikes all share the road. Also, be careful not to let your front wheel fall into one of the trolley tracks as this can easily throw you off your bike.
Our last point of call was the world’s most crooked street. This one-block section of Lombard Street is situated on a steep incline and contains a number of switchback turns. To be honest, although this is a beautiful neighborhood I would hate to live here as it is a tourist mecca. Both the top and bottom of the street is always packed with tourists taking photos.
We dropped the bikes off back at the Bike and Roll shop after about 4 hours in the saddle but it was totally worth it. We would like to thank the guys at Bike and Roll for looking after us and if you are considering coming to San Francisco we recommend hiring your bike from them.
A couple of days after our white water rafting expedition, we were making our way back to Ubud to go cycling. We went further north of Ubud this time, starting from Mount Batur and going on a mainly downhill cycle for 20.5 kilometers.
Our starting point was in a little restaurant perched high on a hill overlooking Mount Batur. While we sipped on hot tea and coffee and nibbled on fresh tropical fruit and little cakes, we were treated to spectacular views of Mount Batur, the second largest volcano in Bali, although still about half the height of the largest volcano, Mount Agung. Batur is an active volcano, with the last explosion during the 1960s. Today, the volcano looked pretty awake, with what resembled a stream of black liquid casting a shadow on its left side and creating a haze of smoke at its peak. To the right of the volcano sits Lake Batur, which has fishing ponds by the shore (the primary industry still is in agriculture and farming).
We met our guide, Sichan, as well as a Japanese couple and their son who was also going to be on our tour. We were fitted with bikes, and helmets and given cycling gloves (you could keep the latter) for the journey ahead.
Like our white water trip, the most challenging part of the cycle was the first stage, with the road being quite bumpy and gravelly. This didn’t last for too long though as we stopped alongside a bamboo forest, touched cacao and coffee bean trees, and also inhaled the scent of the beautiful frangipanis littered along the road.
Next stop was a line of rice paddies, which grow different varieties of white rice (as opposed to black sticky rice, glutinous rice or even red rice). We also stumbled upon a Balinese Hindu temple (a private temple apparently, not just anyone can enter), as well as hung about a traditional Balinese house. At the front of the house, a government sign marks the number of males and females living in the dwelling. The house we visited was huge, with a farm (it’s tradition to keep one to two pigs and possibly other animals such as chickens – this house even owned rabbits), rooms for the older generations (usually the parent’s family lives in the same household), as well as specific areas for preparing food and keeping the deceased before cremation.
In Bali, prior to refrigeration, it was usual to cook one meal at the beginning of the day and then eat the same dish for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We also saw an elderly lady languidly putting together a dozen or so Hindu offerings, delicately putting frangipani petals in each individual straw-woven basket.
The last leg of the ride was through the town’s streets – it can get rather busy but it’s not scary, as most cars will weave and even let you through first (ah, the benefits of being an incompetent tourist). Here, you can see people going about their own business – schoolchildren casually pedaling on their pushbikes, women juggling their babies and fresh produce, as well as men sitting outside stores patiently awaiting their next customers.
Again, similar to the white water rafting trip, we were welcomed at the end of the cycle with an Indonesian buffet – scrumptious satay, curries, fried noodles, rice, and fresh fruit and desserts awaited our growling bellies.
I’m not a confident cyclist, so I did wind up with a rather sore bottom at the end of the trip, thanks to failing to stand up on my seat to give my butt some seat relief. Confident cyclists however will find the downhill ride very easy, but there are more challenging and longer cycles available. My final tip? Even if it’s overcast, wear a shirt rather than a singlet. I wore a singlet and had my bag strapped across one of my shoulders – even though I had put on sunscreen and it wasn’t a stinking hot day, I managed to get sunburnt, leaving a bag strap mark clearly lining my right shoulder. It’s now tanned and has left me with a definite white line that I won’t be getting rid of in the next few months!
I would like to say thanks again to Sobek for looking after us on this tour. We had a great experience and would definitely recommend Sobek as the company of choice to experience Bali on wheels.
It’s hot in Bali. Scorching, in fact. Year-round, temperatures hover between 28-33 degrees celsius. So, you have three options. First, follow the crowds and flock to the beach for surfing, swimming, sunbathing, and selling (well, you get approached a lot by people trying to sell you everything from pineapples to beach mats – like how I managed to get all the verbs start with ‘s’?).
Second, you can chill by the hotel and laze by the pool, presuming that you have one. And third? Arguably the most fun of the three is to spend the day at Waterbom Park in Kuta.
Bali Waterbom has more than 17 waterslides and leisure facilities, ranging from the placid to the scream-worthy. Open from 9 am to 6 pm year-round, the park sits upon 3.8 hectares surrounded by tropical Balinese gardens and prides itself not only on building rides that are maintained to strict international standards but also on its ongoing commitment to environmentally sustainable operations.
Showing up on yet another fine day in Bali, Michael and I arrive just before lunchtime amid a sea of people queuing up to spend the day splashing about.
Admission is US$26 (US$16 for children under 12), which doesn’t include locker hire, towel hire, food and drink, or some of the additional rides (these are a water blaster game, a euro bungy and a 10-meter high rock climbing wall).
Rather than carrying around your cash and or credit card though, visitors wear a waterproof wristband that can be topped up with cash. When making a payment, this is simply scanned by staff. To check your balance, multiple barcode scanners are available, and any unused funds are refunded at the end of your stay. Meanwhile, there are obviously no paper maps in sight – the park is well signposted though and it’s easy to find your way around.
Stripping down to our swimwear, Michael and I first checked out the “Lazy River”, grabbing a bright orange floatable “donut” and making our way downstream. We didn’t float down for long though – the screams of people making their way down waterslides were too enticing.
Most of the slides are in the same little tower – check out “Smashdown” for an eight-story slide at a 60-degree angle, reaching speeds of up to 70 kilometers per hour. Then get on those floating donuts for a winding slide down the “Macaroni”. Or go head-to-head with a friend on your stomach down a specially made sled to see who gets to the finish first in the “Boogie Ride”.
For more thrills, the “Boomerang” on the other end of the park gets the heart pumping, as you twist down a sheer 20-meter drop before being swept back up again. But the park’s claim to fame is the newest ride, “Climax” – so freaky that peoples’ legs have buckled at the top and they’ve actually turned around and walked all the way back down the tower, while grown men have been heard to squeal as they zoom down, shocking and cracking up witnesses.
With height and weight requirements as well it’s not for everyone – you stand in a small chamber 19 meters above the ground, as the door is shut (and locked) on you. Then a woman’s voice counts down…3…2…1… before the trapdoor opens up beneath you and you are sucked down a near-vertical dip, then up and around before finally sliding to a mighty splashing stop at the bottom.
At 2.5 G-force speed the ride is over soon enough, but not before you skip a heartbeat or two – I screamed the first time but it was well worth a second (and even third) go! For guys that have metal anywhere on their board shorts (e.g. zippers, pockets, etc), they will need to turn their shorts inside out (Michael had to), while girls – watch your bikini tops and bottoms when you get to the end!
For those not keen on rides, there are plenty of places to wade, sunbathe and just relax in the sun – even VIP-designated areas to laze about, sunken pool bars, and massage parlors.
The only downside? Walking around in our swimming suits all day meant that we had no pockets – and nowhere to put our locker key. While the key is on a band, this isn’t adjustable and Michael did drop it somewhere in the theme park, which meant 20 minutes of fruitless searching at the end of the day. Fortunately, someone stumbled upon the key and handed it in to lost property, saving us from having to pay for a replacement. But after a day of sun and water fun, how trivial does this sound?
“Massage? You want massage?” She called out to my fiancé Michael and I from her perch on the steps outside her salon, giving me the once over as she monotonously ran through the words.
“No thanks,” I quickly mumbled, barely breaking my stride as I continued past.
At the salon next door, another lady looked languidly at me from her seat. “Yes, massage?” she entreated, peering up at me from within an arm’s reach.
I shook my head, walking single file ahead of Michael down the narrow footpath.
“Massage!” she called out to Michael, grabbing his hand and trying to yank him into her store.
Grr.. Get the hint lady. And keep your hands off my fiancé, please.
Beauty salons run amok in Bali, and as a tourist, being asked if you’re interested in a massage/manicure/pedicure or other beauty treatment is as commonplace as seeing someone wearing a Bintang singlet down the street. Salon ladies (and occasionally men) prepositioning you for their services seem to have an uncanny ability to sense you coming from a few meters away, as the words “massage” automatically leave their lips as soon as you walk past.
Michael and I were keen to get massages throughout our stay in Bali, trying out a number of lower-end parlors and splurging on our last day. In Bali, two types of massage are typically offered – Balinese and stone massages. Balinese massage techniques are a blend of Swedish and Thai massage styles – Swedish due to their use of oil and long, gliding strokes, and Thai thanks to the emphasis on pulling and cracking the joints.
Starting prices for one-hour Balinese massage is from about 50,000 rupiahs, while a one-hour stone massage is from about 80,000 rupiah – although, of course, prices vary depending on how posh the salon is. A sign outlining a salon’s services and prices are typically lit up outside the store, while brochures are also available.
Balinese massages may vary slightly depending on the salon you go to, but typically you enter a section cordoned off with curtains with either one or two beds (depending of course if you are getting a massage with your partner), where you strip down into to your underwear.
Lying face down on the massage table/bed, the emphasis starts with long strokes on your back – for those who like hard, let-me-beat-you-up massages though, you may be disappointed – the massages are more relaxing than the deep tissue kind. You then get your shoulders and limbs kneaded before they turn you over and focus again on your limbs, fingers, toes, head, and face.
The only major difference I found was with a) one massage parlor not wiping the oil off me afterward and b) one salon massaging my stomach (making me feel rather queasy as I’d made the not-so-wise decision to just gobble up a massive dinner of fresh juice, steamed vegetables and nasi goreng topped with prawn crackers).
Meanwhile, stone massages are just that – hot stones are applied to your limbs, back and stomach, with the aim of relaxation and improving circulation. The stones are used to massage you then lined up in these sections one at a time, so that you have a line of hot stones placed on your legs at one point, which stay there for a couple of minutes before they are transferred to another part of your body.
For ladies wanting more pampering, you can also try and bargain to have a cheaper overall price if you want to also have a pedicure, manicure, or other treatment. Walking past a restaurant next to my hotel one day, a lady offered to give me a manicure and foot scrub/pedicure for the bargain price of 30,000 rupiahs and 40,000 respectively (about US$3.75 and US$5). Given that this was half the price of the salon I had been considering a few blocks away, I promptly said yes, although I was puzzled by the fact that there was no salon in sight.
She nodded at me to follow her, turned on her heel, and entered a little alcove within to the restaurant, up two flights of stairs and past a row of ramshackle doors that looked like they had seen better days. It turned out that this was a cheap hotel, with rooms hovering around US$20 per night (due to no hot water and basic amenities). Going into one of the rooms, it turned out this was the lady’s salon – she and a couple of other ladies worked here, providing simple beds, pillows and curtains for massages and modest seats and washtubs for manicures and pedicures amid the peeling paint on the walls and ceiling. Here my feet were freshly scrubbed, moisturized, and painted hot pink with little flowers dotted on with toothpicks, while my hands were similarly smooth and pampered. Although my salon surroundings weren’t glamorous I left feeling relaxed and refreshed.
The lady who pampered me, Ita, spoke little English and I didn’t speak Indonesian or Balinese, but with gestures, smiles and small talk, we got along swimmingly. I learned that Ita was 23 years old and was brought up in a village not too far away from Kuta. She had come to Kuta to earn an income, leaving behind most of her family and her boyfriend, who tried to come and visit her once a month. She lived with her brother in a small, one-bedroom apartment that included a kitchenette – but the toilet was a communal one with everyone else living on the same floor. For this, they paid 500,000 rupiahs per month (about US$62.50) – money trivial by Western standards but certainly not to the same level of comfort that we’d expect.
On our last day in Bali, en route to the airport, Michael and I went to Green Garden, a hotel that also doubles up as a spa, in South Kuta. Finding their brochure at the airport when we first arrived, Michael recalled that he had been to the spa on a previous trip. The spa has also been featured in a number of guidebooks and has been rated very positively.
We were indulging in a three-hour treatment that included a foot scrub, a 1.5-hour massage (Balinese for Michael, stone for me), a mini facial, body scrub and bath/shower. The experience started off with us being picked up by Green Garden staff and whisked to their hotel, where we were greeted with pineapple juice and selected what oils and scrubs we wanted to be used during the massage and facial/body scrubs. Our surroundings all illustrated a picture of bliss – here we saw a water feature of a nude couple forever looking lovingly into each other’s eyes, pots of water framed with fresh frangipani petals floating in them, a picturesque pool and manicured gardens, as well as soft calming music playing throughout the premises.
After choosing our treatments, Michael and I were guided to a private room enclosed in a bamboo face, which had natural light and fresh air seeping through. Rather than curtains, shells hung from the ceiling, while a mini tropical garden with smooth white pebbles lined one wall, next to the bathtub.
Once the three-hour indulgence was over, we were treated to a three-tiered glass of fresh pineapple, melon and papaya, and honey/lemon tea. Gliding back to the hotel’s restaurant afterward, my feet barely touched the ground as I had my last Indonesian dinner, topped with banana fritters and a banana split for dessert. Pure. Bliss.
In addition to the traditional hands-on approach, most spa salons in Bali use spa salon software, making it quick and easy for visitors to make bookings and enjoy a seamless spa experience.
Do you love the water – but don’t want to lie on the beach or splash around all day? For the more adventurous traveler to Bali, white water rafting is right up your stream.
There are a number of companies that offer white water rafting packages, however, all go down the same river (at varying points). We chose Sobek, which provided a grade three rafting experience that lasts around 2.5 hours and includes a buffet Indonesian lunch afterward.
We were staying in Kuta, so a car picked us up from our hotel, driving over an hour and a half or so to Ubud. Here, we quickly put on our lifejackets and helmets, packed all of our valuables into waterproof bags, got into teams, and chose our oars. Getting to the river below is a mini trek in itself – there were 543 steps leading all the way down.
Our guide, Rocky, was hilarious and good-natured. He would sometimes slap the oar on the river surface, making us jump, or dribble cold water down our necks. When we’d jump and squeal he’d yell, “Anaconda!”. The guides looked like they really enjoyed their jobs – they'd paddle past each other, encouraging us to race the other tourists, or we’d get into water fights, flicking the oars towards each other. Needless to say, even though nobody fell into the water, you are guaranteed to get wet.
The rapids were not particularly challenging, and the guides are very good in directing us to paddle forwards and backward when we need to. We did manage to get stuck on one of the rapids which meant that Rocky had to jump out and drag us over the rocks, however other than that the rapids are quite easy and are suitable for ages young and old.
We saw monitor lizards almost camouflaged on the banks of the river, were amazed by beautiful, moss-encrusted rock carvings (they looked ancient but were disappointed to hear that they were only about 15 years old) and were drenched under gushing waterfalls (well, Rocky made us go underneath it).
At the end of the tour, Michael jumped into the water, which was freezing as it was in the shade. Drenched, we made our way to our well-deserved buffet lunch that included fish satay, mie goreng, curry chicken, rice, and fried soybeans, followed up with fresh fruits and sticky rice sweets.
Incredibly, we still had the energy to return back up to where we started, to change, and also, in true tourist form, check out the professional photos of you rafting and potentially purchase it.
Sobek is one of many major adventure tour companies operating in Bali, but there are many other companies that offer white water rafting. When choosing a company, be sure that they are accredited to ensure that they have the proper safety and insurance regulations in place.
Sobek is accredited and has won a number of tourism awards as well.
If you enjoyed this article and would like to find out more about the best places to go, check out our Wanderlist - Best Places to go Whitewater Rafting.
Have you ever been to a place that you consider paradise? A place that is so breathtakingly beautiful that you have to think twice about sharing it with anyone else, lest it be overrun with tourists next time you go?
For me, paradise is summer weather all year round, cloudless blue skies, crystal clear waters, and lazing upon shimmering white sand in an idyllic tropical setting. And I stumbled upon it in Gili Trawangan, without even planning to.
Gili Trawangan is one of three other “Gili” (gili means “small island”) islands northeast of Bali. The largest of the three islands (the other two are, Gili Air and Gili Meno), it is known as a bit of a party hub, although this is relative to the serenity of its neighboring sister islands.
To get to Gili, you can take either a slow boat (takes about 10 hours) or a fast boat (2.5 hours) from Bali. We chose Gili Getaway, which got us quickly and easily to and from Gili and does numerous trips to and fro each day. The company is run by Tony – a native Englishman who has lived on the island for three years, he has had a varied and interesting business career and has an affable, chatty nature to boot.
While the trip is speedy, I recommend taking seasick tablets before embarking on the fast boat, even if you have sturdy sea legs – the Lombok Strait’s waters are one of the deepest in the world which means that you feel like you’re on a never-ending rollercoaster for almost the entire trip. The waves lift the little speedboat (it takes about 20 people) so high that it slams violently back into the water, crashing so loudly that it’s a wonder the boat doesn’t irreparably damage itself on each trip.
Arriving in Gili, we jumped off the boat onto white sand and refreshing water that swam around our knees. Odi met us at the ‘wharf’ and promptly led us to our bungalow. Another striking feature of Gili is that there are no motorized vehicles on the island whatsoever (your choices are walking, cycling or by horse-drawn cart), adding to the relaxed atmosphere of the place. In fact, over lunch we realized that the island was so laidback that service over lunch took forever – luckily we felt just as lethargic as the waiters and weren’t starving either, so we could wait.
Compared to Bali (and more similar to the rest of Indonesia), Gili is deeply and predominantly Muslim. Being there during the month of Ramadan meant that not only did we get the call to prayer five times a day (including at 3 am and 5 am), we also heard the entire prayer over the loudspeaker from the mosque which was a block away. In the evenings when Muslims could break their fast, prayer lasted for over four hours, finishing at about 10.30 pm.
Visitors should also be mindful of such cultural and religious differences – for example, there are signs on the outskirts of the beach that request that tourists be respectful and cover up (i.e. not wear bikinis, go shirtless) outside of the beach.
Not that everyone did this unfortunately – I couldn’t help but cringe when I saw a guy strolling around in nothing but tiny swimming trunks (not a good look on anyone anyway) or a lady casually wandering around or cycling with a bikini top and shorts on.
We had first heard about Gili from a friend of ours who had spent a week in this tropical utopia and were convinced to go when we chatted with Chris, a Canadian who owns and runs the Palm Bay Bungalows, budget accommodation within minutes from the beach with comfortable beds, clean rooms (it’s custom to remove your shoes before entering), hammocks swinging outside your door and ceiling fans.
Despite the heat, if you’re the type of person that likes to sleep with sheets, you will need to bring this (or a sleeping bag to throw over the bed) with you if you stay here. We were upgraded while we were there to an air-conditioned room and an en-suite bathroom – in short, the bungalows were bliss. Odi, who looked after the place, was incredibly laid back and also arranged bike hire for us on our last day.
Besides chilling out on the beach, snorkeling, and scuba diving during the day, be sure to also hire a bike and ride around the island. At eight kilometers wide and two kilometers across, the ride takes an easy 1.5-2 hours to complete – it would be less if you didn’t have to push your bike across some of the sandy and less populated parts of the island.
For those who want a bit more isolation and relaxation, there are a few villas and private beaches to the north of the island where you can have what feels like your own slice of tropical paradise, with the only sound coming from the waves gliding along the shore.
At night, the island wakes up, offering dinner specialties of barbecued seafood (choose your fresh fish or other seafood along with your choice of sauce, they weigh and cook it for you) along with unlimited salads. There are other options available such as pizzas and pasta, but it’s virtually impossible not to be drawn to the look, smell, and sizzle of the seafood and continue living blissfully, eating dinner in a little hut overlooking the beach.
As the night matures, DJ’s spin tunes in the bars and restaurants along the main road, enticing people to drink, dance and be merry.
If eating in a hut wasn’t enough for you, there is also a row of huts facing the beach that all have little TVs inside them. You can choose from a vast selection of recent and classical movies in a range of languages and then simply relax, eat popcorn and watch the film.
Across from this little enterprise is a ‘cinema’ that plays two movies each night. Sitting on cushions or on high chairs at the back, the 50-odd patrons only need to buy a drink in order to watch the movie of the night.
Of course, if you are looking for something a little more on the crazy side the island is famous for its magic mushrooms. While not legal, you will find them advertised all over the island.
Just like this.
Before Michael and I arrived in Gili, we had already planned to stay there for two nights. But with the laidback vibe, the enviable weather, and the heavenly setting, if we could have stayed longer, we would have done this in an instant.
A big thanks to Tony (Island Getaway) and especially Chris (Palm Bay Bungalows) for making our stay both enjoyable and memorable.
Bali is one of the most popular holiday destinations for Australians – it’s not far (from Darwin it’s just over a two-and-a-half hour flight), it’s cheap and it has a lot of the ingredients that Aussie tourists love – sun, sand, and cold beer.
While the flight isn’t long, we had a child screeching, screaming, and squealing at the top of her lungs the ENTIRE time. It was an unrelenting, piercing scream that could burst your eardrum – she didn’t even stop in between screams to take a breath. She’d be a good opera singer/horse racing announcer/auctioneer one day. The flight attendants looked harried, the passengers were grumpy and one man completely lost it, barking to change seats and making his own booming yell of frustration that shut the kid up for a nanosecond, she was completely in shock. All I can say is, luckily the flight wasn’t any longer.
Arriving in Denpasar at night, getting through customs takes a while as everyone needs to pay a visa fee at the airport equivalent to US$25 – notes only and change is given in Indonesian rupiah. The airport is similar to many others throughout South East Asia – you walk out to be greeted with warm, balmy air, a sea of people milling about outside offering transport, and a row of taxis parked next to the sidewalk.
Standing in line to catch a cab, we went to the Oasis Hotel, where we would be staying for the next few days. My first impression was that it was quite fancy – a nice lobby/dining area, an inviting pool surrounded by lights, which was then flanked by palm trees. Around this were all the rooms – there are a few blocks of rooms across two stories. Bali has rooms to suit every budget though – we had opted for a fairly schmick hotel at the lower end of the price range so that we could relax, but there are also more upmarket villas and hotels as well as budget backpacker accommodation available.
Settling into our room, flicking on the air-conditioning, and tuning into some TV, we promptly fell fast asleep.
The next morning, given that it was my first time in Bali (and Michael’s seventh), it was a case of tour guide leading the tourist for a bit of an orientation to the city. Our hotel was about a 10-minute stroll toward the beach and we walked first to the Matahari shopping complex, then to the beach, and then up the street parallel to Kuta Beach to check out Poppies Lane (there are two Poppies – Poppies 1 and Poppies 2 and they are lined on both sides with restaurants, convenience stores, and shops).
Along the way, we were accosted by the standard Balinese greetings – “Massage?”, “Transport?”, “Braid your hair?”, “Manicure?” and even (under their breath as you walk past), “Magic mushrooms?”. While a simple “no thank you” while you walk past usually suffices, there are some instances where the vendor can be rather persistent. While this pressure can become annoying after a few days before you start making faces at these guys do put it into context – this is their livelihood and they don’t get paid much – so they’re doing their utmost to earn a few bucks from any tourists that come by their way.
If you do laze on Kuta Beach, the greetings continue – ladies hoisting baskets on their heads with pineapples that they slice to resemble an upside-down popsicle that you can eat on the beach, and men walking around offering surfing lessons, water, beach mats, and wide-brimmed hats. While some ladies did sunbathe topless, this is not the norm and is culturally frowned upon – particularly awkward as well when you’re half nude and being accosted so often.
Unlike the rest of Indonesia which is predominantly Muslim, Bali’s main religion is Hindu – evidenced by the hundreds of straw-woven offerings that you will inevitably step on during your stay. These litter the streets of Bali and don’t worry if you accidentally trod on them – they are made daily and are filled with flowers, cookies, rice, and even money and cigarettes. You won’t go two meters without seeing one (or three) outside a home, shop or temple.
If you’re lucky, you may also stumble upon a beachside Hindu ceremony – during this time, the street is momentarily blocked so that a parade of people singing, beating drums, and carrying food, flowers, and other offerings could arrange this on the sand.
Similar to the rest of South East Asia, the climate is tropical, with the peak seasons being July/August. Daytime is hot, so make sure that you cover up with sunscreen etc, while the nights can be pleasantly cool, with a mild breeze. If you are the type that gets attacked by mosquitoes though, make sure that you put on a bit of insect repellent once the sunsets.
The majority of tourists by far are Australian, but there are plenty of English and European tourists visiting nowadays as well. If you want to look like the biggest tourist in Bali, be sure to do at least two of the following things: braid your hair, wear a Bintang (local beer) singlet, look like a deer stuck in headlights as you wait for ages to cross the road and take market prices at face value.
If you’re keen on nightlife, check out Jalan Legian (Legian Street) where you can find two-for-one cocktails, listen to live music, and get your groove on with DJs spinning tunes until early morning.
Here you can also find numerous ATMs (even Commonwealth Bank for Aussies), as well as money exchange places that also double as stores. Be wary though if you decide to do the latter – while the exchange rate is clearly advertised on a whiteboard outside the store, some do not include their commission in the rate.
Unfortunately, there have also been some incidents of scams where through a sleight of hand the money exchange teller will slip himself a note – or get a friend to distract you. This is easy to do when the smallest note is 1000 rupiah and the largest is 100,000, and no receipt is provided for the transaction. To be safe, try to exchange money $100 at a time (that way you can easily work out the rate) and hold on to your money until you’ve counted it all up in front of the teller(s).
Don’t let that deter you though. The Balinese people are some of the happiest, most hospitable and laid back people you will ever meet, and English is widely spoken (the language is also very phonetic in comparison to English). Bali has activities to cater to every interest – evidenced by the fact that 80 percent of all tourists to Indonesia only visit this island. Besides the beach, shopping and nightlife, there are water sports including white water rafting, scuba diving and parasailing, cycling, volcano trekking, cooking schools, and traditional dancing and batik weaving to do – and you’ve only just scratched the surface. Read our individual posts to find out more about some of these activities.
Here’s a short video montage of our time in Bali.
After finishing a three-day Adventure Tours trip that visited Alice Springs, Kata Tjuta, Uluru and Kings Canyon, we were back in Alice Springs, getting up before dawn to meet our new guide, JB, at the lobby of our hostel.
JB is what you’d call a quintessential Aussie – in his mid-60s, he was still going strong, with a friendly nature, a laidback attitude, and a typical mumbling drawl that meant that tourists can oftentimes not completely understand what he was saying. He seemed genuinely interested to know where the 20-odd people on our tour had come from, what they did for a job, and what their interests were, spending time chatting to us around the table after dinner on our first night to ask lots of questions. I liked him immediately.
Our first stop was through the Tropic of Capricorn, which sounds quite exciting, except that besides one sign that tells you that you’re passing by, there’s nothing else around. There’s no line through the dirt, there’s no fanfare about it. Plus it was incredibly dark so the photos were just as underwhelming.
Driving on, we were reminded about how remote we were with a store that sold its goods for double the price of other major Australian cities, as well as a couple of statues of a male/female lizard (very cute) and an Aboriginal woman touting a spear (very massive). The next signs of life come via a gas station that markets itself as the most remote in Australia. “Road trains” – essentially gigantic trucks toting up to five loads of cargo (groceries, cattle, etc) behind them – were our road neighbors as we continued to make our way north.
Lunchtime was at Wycliffe Well – the UFO capital of Australia, thanks to it having the most UFO sightings. The people that run the one little park/hotel/store/petrol station in the area have completely capitalized on this – there’s a little museum, as well as plenty of posters, including signs for the “malien” and “femalien” toilets (geddit)? There’s also a mini-farm housing a number of Aussie native fauna, including some very territorial emus guarding their eggs.
The main attraction for the day was the Devil's Marbles, a site sacred to its traditional Aboriginal owners. A deep brown color, there were literally dozens of huge boulders scattered across the flat plains. There were some boulders that showed clear signs of erosion – one looked like a massive salami, it had been sliced cleanly in half, exposing its white flesh underneath, while others were chipping in places. I felt like a kid again, clambering over piles of rocks to get the best shots.
Besides these boulders, what also litters the landscape is the numerous termite mounds – this was the start of the millions more we would see as we went up to Darwin. Scaling up to a whopping eight meters in height and lasting up to 80 years, the mounds are hard as rock and made by termites gathering the surrounding dirt and spitting it out to create a hill that other animals can live in and birds can perch on, so they’re great for the ecosystem. They were amazing – some were stout, some had pointy tips, some were red and some were almost green/grey thanks to the color of the dirt that we went past.
If Alice Springs is remote, the town of Tennant Creek just up from the Devil's Marbles is even more so. Sadly, the town’s liquor store is arguably the most popular shop for its residents. The Northern Territory has six times the alcohol consumption compared with other states in Australia, and the problem is so acute that there is a two-hour timeframe to buy cask wine (4-6 pm), while ID is scanned with every alcohol purchase. Getting to our campsite, we walked up a hill and looked out at the scenery – with the occasional road train and car driving past into the distance, we truly were in the middle of nowhere. Welcome to hot, dry, red, remote outback Australia.
If you ever want a sample of the quintessential Aussie humor, look no further (but do travel far) to Daly Waters Pub, an outback roadhouse for travelers from all corners of the globe. For example, next to the pub is a traffic light permanently on red (apparently a tourist waited there for about 15 minutes with no other cars in sight before catching on). Meanwhile, the store next to the pub sells various necklaces and other bric-a-brac, greeting you with signs like “The burglars (sic – burgers) are better at Hungry Jack’s”, “Next McDonalds – 285km” and a helicopter perched precariously on the roof above.
Going inside the pub, you can spend ages checking out all the memorabilia of travelers before you – people have left copies of their IDs, jerseys and even bras and underwear hanging from every corner of the room.
Driving on to Mataranka, right in the heart of the “never never”, people can come and soak in the thermal springs that are about body temperature in warmth. The springs are not very big though, so in peak season be prepared to be rubbing shoulders and feet with other people keen to take a dip – not particularly relaxing. You can walk around (about 1.2 kilometers) and see if you can spot any native wildlife like crocodiles or kangaroos, but other the walk is not particularly enthralling.
Arriving at our campsite before dark, fortunately, we had gathered more than enough firewood to compensate for the previous night, managing to dump all the wood to create a substantial bonfire. The heat was starting to pick up too – our permanent tents were sweltering and a few of our fellow friends were rather spooked by fairly large Aussie spiders lurking about. There was also a green tree frog stuck in a tap pipe in the men’s toilets – sadly, after rescuing the creature he leaped outside to freedom, only to be found shriveled to a crisp by the hot sun at noon the next day..!
The next morning we had a sleep-in, not needing to depart until the late time of 6.30 am (woohoo!). Our stop was Katherine Gorge, where we could choose to walk, kayak ($30 for double, $45 for single), or go on a cruise ($60) down the spectacular waters. Despite the heat, you wouldn’t really want to go for a swim right by the shore – the trees nearby were completely infiltrated with bats (there were so many that they looked like brown leaves shaking in the wind), and the area was filled with the aroma of bat droppings.
Michael and I shared a kayak and paddled down to the first gorge (there are three) – this takes about 2.5 hours return, including time to go for a walk and sunbathe up to the rock face dropping down to the water below once you’ve reached the gorge. I’ve only been three times but I absolutely love kayaking – even though after a few hours my arms feel like jelly and I try not to think about each stroke so that I can keep on going. One thing that eludes me though is how to kayak and not finish completely saturated as I wind up splashing myself with every stroke. Is it possible to be dry the entire time?
The gorge is awesome – it’s fairly wide (but you’re told to keep to the right at all times so that boats can cruise easily past you in both directions), and you can see crocodile traps (we didn’t see any crocs stuck in them though – not sure if that was a good or bad thing), small waterfalls and an eerie little cave. The weather was perfect – warm sun and a blue, cloudless sky. We also had another chance to take a dip at the next stop – Edith Falls, a fairly rapid but small waterfall. It’s a 500-meter swim to get to the gushing falls. It’s a picturesque little spot, nice for a quick dip.
While the landscape of hot, outback Australia doesn’t vary too much, two major features continued to strike us – the first was the thousands of termite mounds that we continued to pass (it became a game to point out really tall or particularly interesting mounds to note while on the bus – the number of mounds in the Northern Territory surely outnumbers the Australian population), while the second was the amount of “back-burning” that was going on in the outback. In order to curb the spread of massive bushfires, the practice of pre-empting this in summer by purposely burning the dry grass in a contained area is common throughout Australia. Apparently, a practice conducted by the Aborigines before European settlement, it’s not an uncommon sight to see the skies being colored by lots of black smoke as back-burning is done in the distance.
Arriving in Darwin, we checked into our hostel, Frogs Hollow, separately to the majority of our tour, who were all staying in Cavanagh Hostel as they were continuing on for the next few days to Kakadu (we were going to Bali the next day instead).
I would have willingly eaten a cane toad to have stayed in Cavanagh instead of the skanky hole we slept in, otherwise known as a double hostel room. I could have put up with the loud, death metal music blaring downstairs. I could have put up with dirty showers that smelled like bad sex – even though they were right next to our room. But really, did I have to sleep on a bed that had sheets with mysterious, yellowed stains all over them, in a cramped room with mold all around it?
The day after our tour ended, we woke up from our hellhole (i.e. hostel), had a quick shower, and got the hell out of there. Starving, I made my way down to the communal kitchen to see if I could score some breakfast, but all I was greeted with were some crumbs, a few dirty knives, and not much else. So we wandered up to the city center and scored ourselves a fairly fancy breakfast to keep us going and to dust away the rest of the skankiest that we had just left behind. A swanky eggs benedict, toast, and coffee will do that to you.
While Darwin is by the coast of Australia, it doesn’t have the pristine beaches that the east coast is known for (e.g. Bondi, Manly, Four Mile Beach etc). It is pretty swanky by the coast though – there’s a swimming pool with a man-made ‘surfing’ area where you can perch atop a surfboard and see if you can withstand the ‘waves’, as well as some nice sandy and grassy areas to sunbathe upon. This area is flanked by a boardwalk, as well as some expensive-looking cafes, shops, and residential apartments and offices. If you’ve ever been to Darling Harbour in Sydney, it looks a bit like a smaller version of that. Surrounding this area, you can walk to some of the other main buildings in Darwin – check out some parliamentary offices and the like.
We decided to skip the latter though and make our way to Darwin’s museum. It’s about a 15-minute bus ride outside of the Woolworths shopping center behind Mitchell Street (the main street in Darwin) – catch bus number 4, you can buy your tickets on the bus.
The museum has some interesting exhibitions, including some fossils from the Northern Territory that are thousands of years old, stuffed native fauna (did you know that two-thirds of all snakes in Australia are deadly?), Aboriginal artwork, and a dedicated section to Cyclone Tracy. This cyclone hit Darwin on Christmas Eve just over 25 years ago and the whole city was completely flattened, so it’s amazing to realize that everything that you see in Darwin today is a result of them having to rebuild. There are some interesting aerial shots before/after the cyclone and even a dark room that you can go in to hear what the cyclone sounded like when it struck – people that experienced the ordeal won’t go into this room, it brings back too many bad memories.
Besides the museum, most of the sites in Darwin can be found within the city center. While it’s not a big city, the main street, Mitchell Street, really comes alive every night as casual pub-goers mingle with their more upmarket bar-hoppers on the strip. There’s also a melting pot of cuisines available, from Thai and Chinese to standard Aussie grub.
