Finally, we are able to spare some time to write about our recent trip around Tasmania over the Easter weekend. We decided that the best way to get around would be in a campervan so we were free and easy. It turned out to be a great plan as you will read in the article as it gave us the opportunity to see some unique creatures in the wild.
In preparation for our morning flight, we set our alarms nice and early and caught a cab to the airport in peak hour traffic. It’s amazing how a simple 20-minute journey can turn into 45 mins in crazy traffic.
We boarded our flight to find out we were sitting at the back of the plane and had a French couple with 2 young girls seated in front of us on our Virgin Blue flight. Let the screaming on takeoff and landing begin…. Now I can typically handle screaming kids but this time was really quite annoying as the mother couldn’t give a shit and didn’t comfort the girls at all.
On our descent, a voice came over the intercom telling us that we couldn’t bring fruit into Tasmania. DOH! We had packed 6 mandarins in our carry-on bag so we had to scoff three each in 20 mins.
We arrived to a cold day and while waiting for our bag at the turnstile a police sniffer dog came and sat down next to me (smelling the mandarins that were previously in my bag), the lady officer asked if I had any fruit and I explained the situation… meanwhile every passenger was starring at me (presuming I was some sort of drug mule) while I went through my bag showing the lady that there was nothing there. How embarrassing!
Picking up our campervan we drove off to Hobart city and to our first stop which was the Cadbury Chocolate Factory. En route we stopped in at a pub and had rissoles and lamb roast for lunch and played a game of keno…$1 we will never get back…
At the Cadbury factory, I managed to get in free after I flashed my travel agent license from 2005. Being Easter we also got given 2 chocolate bunnies. Checked out the gift shop while we waited for our tour. During the tour, the lady explained all about the chocolate-making process and we got free samples of Cherry Ripes and Flakes but still made a few purchases for the trip back at the gift shop before heading off to Hobart again for dinner as it started to rain.
Got to Hobart and checked out the harbor where we saw the old P and O research ship that goes to the Antarctic. Then went to check out the Salamanca area (where they have the Salamanca markets on a Saturday). Shopped for some fresh fruits, cheeses, and stocked up on cereal and milk for the trip.
While taking a photo out the front Lisette was accosted by a guy with a white beard who wanted to know absolutely everything (personal) about us. He was friendly enough but after a few minutes, it seemed to be more of an interrogation so we did our best to lose him.
Drove around Battery Point and looked at all the old houses and shops, then we drove to Wrest Point and went for dinner at the casino bistro. The all-you-can-eat buffet was more expensive than we were willing to pay for and we weren’t that hungry so went to one of the other restaurants instead.
I had the Thai chicken salad with hokkien noodles and Lisette had the smoked salmon ceasar salad (mine was the winner on the night).
Got back to a cold car and decided to drive through the night to Port Arthur where we would camp out at a car parking area until the morning.
Woke up to many cars and campervans driving past us – after a freezing night (with Lisette practically suffocating the claustrophobic Michael), it turned out that we had slept till 10 am or so!
We walked down to Port Arthur entrance – they close late as they do ghost tours as well. The cheapest ticket you can buy to get in costs $30 (bronze pass), which gives you access to the area, a guided 30-minute tour, and a 20-minute harbor cruise. You also get playing cards where you can ‘be’ a prisoner and find out about the convict’s life.
Really informative and educational tour about Port Arthur and its convict history – can see how you can easily spend a whole day wandering the 90 acres or so. Over the 47 years that it was in operation it had about 7,000 prisoners walk through and toil on its grounds, with about 1,100 dying and being buried on Death Island across the water. Besides the various penitentiaries and housing for the governors and soldiers, you can find a couple of museums, a shell of a church, and another Anglican one on site.
We went on the harbor cruise first and found out that it was really hard to escape – you could try swimming (someone tried to make a boat out of a beached whale’s carcass), but it was all but impossible to leave.
Unfortunately, when it came to our guided tour it bucketed down with rain and our group was standing under a tree looking fairly miserable as the wind blew more rain in our direction. Our pleasant tour guide tried to make the most of a dismal situation, by cracking jokes (not sure if it was more for his sake though).
Port Arthur was really revolutionary for its time as it was not just a place of punishment – it was aiming to provide reform for the men. In some cases, it did succeed. When the prison shut down it was renamed as Carnarvon for a while with the aim of being a place people could live, but so many tourists (and honeymooners) wanted to visit it for its prisoner history that soon after it reverted to its old name, with many convicts taking tourists around.
We then went straight to the Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary which housed not only 30-odd devils but also a menagerie of birds (tawny frogmouth, rosellas, parrots, peregrine falcon, etc), as well as quolls, wallabies, and kangaroos.
We made it in time to see the devils being fed (scavenging around as they do by nature and attacking each other for the pieces of meat), as well as seeing a bird show, trooping after wallabies and kangaroos (but staying a while away from the geese).
Sadly there are not many devils left in the wild – many are being killed off by a mysterious cancer that is spread from one devil to another when mating or biting each other when playing. The devils that are in the sanctuary are cancer-free. Interestingly their life span is only 5-6 years and while the mum can have up to 15 in a litter, she can only raise 3-4 at a time.
Starving we then went to have lunch at Eaglehawk Neck (named Doo Town) – fisherman’s cone! With battered fish, scallops, calamari rings, and lots of chips. Checked out the blowhole (which was barely blowing) and then up to Fossil Point where lo and behold – there was a pair of orcas swimming around!! Yay – took some awesome shots.
Then came the long drive towards Strahan – the wildlife spotting continued, with a couple of wild Tasmanian Devils, lots of scampering wallabies, mice, and possums – and unfortunately lots of roadkill. Luckily we weren’t the cause of the roadkill (although there were a couple of very close calls). This was all through the night – as they are nocturnal animals we were very fortunate to encounter them, although the road was incredibly windy so you definitely need to be a confident (and not a fatigued) driver to navigate, particularly as the road is not well lit (high beams beaming!)
I decided that I had driven enough for the day and we stopped by the side of the road at Derwent Bridge to sleep for the night. In our next post, we head to Cradle Mountain. Read it here: Around Tasmania in a Campervan – Part 2.
Located in heart of West Africa, Burkina Faso is the sort of place that captures the imagination – how many of you even knew that Burkina Faso exists? This may be one of the world’s poorest countries, but it’s also one of the most stable in the region and runs with an efficiency that’s the envy of many of its neighbors.
Burkina Faso has a primarily tropical climate with two very distinct seasons. The rainy season and the dry season where the harmattan (a hot dry wind from the Sahara) blows. The rainy season lasts approximately four months from June to September and is shorter in the north of the country.
The cuisine of Burkina Faso, typical of West African cuisine, is based around staple foods of sorghum, millet, rice, maize, peanuts, potatoes, beans, yams, and okra. The most common sources of protein are chicken, chicken eggs and freshwater fish. A typical Burkinabe beverage is Banji or Palm Wine, which is fermented palm sap, and Zoom-kom. Especially the town of Banfora is known for its good quality Banji, though one should be wary of the Banji sold by hawkers as it is often not very fresh and may contain added water.
Visitors in June and July must try the caterpillars known as “chenilles”. The caterpillars come fried and can be eaten crunchy like french fries or put in a baguette as a sandwich.
Two key elements of culture in Burkina Faso are its indigenous masks and dancing. The masks used in this region of the western Sahel are made for rites of sacrifice to gods and animal spirits in the villages. Native dance, on the other hand, is employed to demonstrate the villagers’ desire for blessings by the spirits.
The cinema of Burkina Faso is an important part of West African and African film industry. Burkina’s contribution to African cinema started with the establishment of the film festival FESPACO (Festival Panafrican du Cinema et de la Televison de Ouagadougou.
The West African Franc (CFA)
As with many West African countries the main global language is French. Other local languages include: More, Fulfulde, and Lobi.
Bobo, as it’s widely known, may be Burkina Faso’s second-largest city, but it has a small-town charm and its quiet tree-lined streets exude a languid, semitropical atmosphere that makes it a favorite rest stop for travelers. It has a thriving market, a fine mosque, and a small popular quarter, Kibidwe, which is fascinating to roam around. There’s also a lively music scene.
The beautiful Grande Mosque, in the old part of town, is a good example of Sudanese mud-brick architecture with its towers and wooden struts. The best time to visit is at sunset when the facade turns a golden color and the locals pass by pausing for prayer. Le Grande Marche is a huge, colorful market that offers just about everything you need to live in Burkina Faso. From cloth to plastic buckets and jewelry to gas lamps as well as a selection of fruits and vegetables, the market is great for picking up souvenirs.
The modern Cine Sanyon is an excellent cinema that shows good films, including runs and reruns of Burkinabe productions which have won international acclaim, as well as dated Hollywood blockbusters and Jackie Chan flicks.
Most travelers end up liking Ouaga (as locals call it). While it could just be that the city’s name rolls off the tongue in a wonderfully rhythmical African way, there’s no mistaking the fact that, for the capital of the world’s third poorest country, Ouagadougou is surprisingly upbeat, friendly, and home to good hotels, restaurants, and nightspots.
The gateway to the Parc National des Deux Bales where the elephants roam, is the sleepy town Boromo in Southern Burkina Faso.
A few weeks ago Lisette was scanning through the daily group buying deals to see if there was anything interesting when she came across a 2-for-1 deal on Cudo. It was for a 4 hour Middle Harbour Eco Tour with Sydney Harbour Kayaks (a big change from the normal health and beauty or restaurant offers).
Well, last weekend we had the pleasure of taking the tour…. and boy did it live up to expectations!
The morning started at 8.30 am with a comprehensive briefing on safety and how to paddle correctly in a kayak. It’s actually quite interesting how much of a difference a little technique can make in both speed and performance but more importantly in how sore you feel the next day.
We had gone canoeing over the Christmas break in Jervis Bay and I can tell you that my technique must have been horrible as I was in pain for days after.
The obligatory ‘name and shame’ of the group followed when our guide made us introduce ourselves and say where we had heard about the tour. Needless to say, EVERYONE had purchased it through Cudo. Shameless promotion I know but you have to admit that these group-buying sites are powerful. In fact, our tour guide (Sol) explained that they had 2,500 people purchase the coupons and were subsequently booked solid.
After a quick setup of our rudder, we were in the water. We started by paddling out and across the harbor from the Spit Marina and I guess I mustn’t have been listening in the briefing as my arms were already sore. Luckily for us, the weather was perfect though, zero wind, gorgeous blue sky, and about 28 degrees.
Paddling under the Spit Bridge we were surrounded by mega luxury yachts and cruisers on one side and multi-million dollar waterfront houses on the other. In fact, one of the houses was designed by the famous architect Jorn Utzon who is responsible for the iconic Sydney Opera House.
We continued around a few bays making sure that the group stayed relatively bunched and hugging the shoreline for safety. It was amazing to see how much isolated parkland there was considering we were still smack–bang in the middle of Sydney. In fact, Sol pointed out that the geographic center of Sydney was up a small tributary not far from where we were.
I was now starting to have a few issues with my butt and left leg going numb. I guess it was because our rudder was a little off-center and I was constantly battling it to stay on track. About 1 hour 45 mins into the paddle I was praying for a break and luckily for me it wasn’t too far off.
When we hit the halfway point we paddled across the bay to a beautiful little beach landing that was very secluded. We had a bit of an explore while Sol set up the picnic for morning tea. By this time both Lisette and I were famished so we happily devoured the cheese and crackers, Tim Tams, and sliced watermelon washing it down with a cup of coffee.
Once we had let our food settle a bit and had a good chat with some of the other group members we were off again. Making our way around the next point Sol explained some of the history of the area. There were some old buildings to our left that were used as ‘powder houses’. These fortified buildings were used to store the explosives for commercial demolition back in the day. There was a big sign warning not to dock….we didn’t want to take our chances.
Knowing that we were now on our paddle back I was amazed at the transformation of how I felt. I started to get a good rhythm and the pain had gone away which made the paddle so much more pleasant.
Just before we made it back to the marina we came across a young family with 3 children paddling in a canoe. The kids were so excited to see our group and yelled out to challenge us to a race. It was on! I have to let you know that both myself and Lisette are rather competitive people and we didn’t want to go down so we paddled like there was no tomorrow. There was yelling back and forth “we are winning…no we are winning” and in the end, it was too close to call.
The last stretch of water and a headwind had picked up which made us really work hard to get home. Finally, we made it back and said our goodbyes before grabbing our stuff and heading home. It was a great morning out on the water and I would definitely recommend the experience if you have time.
Mauritius is a hidden gem in the Indian Ocean that will enchant and amaze you. Every encounter is an opportunity to discover a friendly face. With the contrast of a multitude of colors and tastes, the island, set in its turquoise sea, is an oasis of peace and tranquility. Mauritius is a melting pot where past and present are smoothly blended together, offering a beauty that will compel you to return to its shores time and time again.
Being in the southern hemisphere Mauritius has its summer months from December to February and its winter from June to August. The temperature in the coastal areas varies between 22C in winter and 34C in summer. The sea temperature ranges between 22C and 27C. The eastern side of the island is prone to strong winds and therefore it is frequented by windsurfers and kite-surfers.
The cuisine of Mauritius is a blend of Indian, African, Chinese, and European influences. It is common for a combination of cuisines to form part of the same meal.
And if you have certain dietary requirements, you can even shop for organic food through established online grocery stores. This should give you plenty of options during your stay.
Mauritius is a blend of diverse cultures and religions. The population of over 1.5 million consists of Hindus, Creole, Chinese, Muslims, and Europeans.
The monetary unit is the Mauritian Rupee (Rs.) which is divided into 100 cents (cs)
The Mauritian economy is based on four sectors: Textile, Tourism, Sugar, and Services
Most people in Mauritius are bilingual and are equally fluent in English and French. Creole and French are the main languages in the everyday environment and several oriental languages are also spoken.
Grand Bay was the first area of the island to fully experience the tourist boom. A shopping and leisure paradise, Grand Bay also happens to be the area where Mauritians head when they want a fun-filled night out (restaurants, bars, and discos). You can also find many dive centers if you are wanting to explore the life below the ocean. I actually did my very first scuba dive out of Grand Bay.
The longest village on the island, Triolet offers an opportunity to visit the biggest Hindu temple, the Maheswarnath.
Flacq is one of the most important villages in Mauritius. It is a meeting point for the people of the East that boasts the country’s largest open-air market. This extremely colorful market attracts a large number of people.
Ile aux Cerfs is a paradise for water sports and has the most beautiful beach in Mauritius. You cannot afford to miss this tiny island, delicately poised on the ocean, a real pearl in the Mauritian landscape.
Owing to the remarkable work accomplished by the Mauritius Wildlife Fund, the island has become an international standard for the protection of natural resources and endangered species. A few of the world’s rarest birds, including the kestrel, can be seen there. You can also discover the extremely rare Pink Pigeon, the Green Gecko Phelsuma, and the Aldabra giant tortoise.
Did you know? Mauritius was the only known habitat of the extinct dodo bird.
Home to splendid hunting grounds covering an area of 900 hectares. Stags, monkeys and boars live amidst the vegetation of the hillside. You can watch a few species of endangered birds, including the kestrel. The Domaine contains four thatched-roof bungalows and a restaurant with a panoramic sea view. Take an opportunity to enjoy a delicious meal of venison and seafood. Yemen reserve is another smaller game park.
A winding road leads from Case Noyale village to the colored earth of Chamarel (an undulating landscape of different and contrasting shades of colors). The different shades of blue, green, red and yellow are apparently the result of the erosion of the volcanic ash. The neighboring waterfalls of Chamarel rise from the moors and the native plant life. The site possesses a rare beauty
This national park of 6,574 hectares was created in 1994 for the protection of Mauritius’ remaining native forests. Enjoy magnificent landscapes, with endemic plants and rare bird species.
Beyond La Marie and Mare-aux-Vacoas we find one of the two natural lakes of Mauritius. It rests within the crater of an extinct volcano. Ganga Talao is an important pilgrimage site and many Mauritians of the Hindu faith walk there during the Maha Shivaratri festival or the night fasting dedicated to Shiva.
Situated in the Riviere Noire district, the bird park stretches over 25 hectares and contains more than 140 bird species from all five continents. Other attractions include fish ponds, tigers, tortoises, monkeys, deer, and orchids.
A district of Mauritius in the north of the island, and is one of the most densely populated parts of the island. The name of the district comes from the French word for grapefruits.
It hosts the SSR botanical garden, or Jardin Botanique Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, renamed in 1988 in honor of the first prime minister of Mauritius.
So, why not check out Mauritius as your next holiday destination, it offers fantastic accommodation ranging from budget resorts to pure 5-star luxury. You can shop till you drop, dive all day long, explore the wilderness or just relax and pamper yourself.
Mention the North Yungas Road to most people and you probably won’t get much of a reaction, that is until you explain that this infamous 70km stretch of asphalt and dirt is commonly known as the Most Dangerous Road in the World or ‘Death Road’.
From an altitude of over 4,500 meters in La Paz, it winds its way precariously through the Amazon to the town of Coroico some 3,000+ meters below.
This might not sound too bad until you add in other factors like fog, rain, and dust, reducing visibility in some areas to just a few meters. Throw in the extreme drop-offs which can exceed 600 meters in some places, no guard rails, uneven road surfaces with a width of just 3 meters and you have a recipe for disaster.
It has seen the deaths of some 200-300 people annually and is attributed to one of Bolivia’s worst road disasters where a bus toppled off the side killing more than 100 passengers.
Ironically the danger of the road has drawn thrill-seekers from around the globe. Thousands of mountain biking enthusiasts flock to Bolivia to take on the Death Road each year and this has tragically resulted in a number of tourist deaths. One of these incidents occurred on the 9th of May 2004 and you can read more about the tragic event at www.liebreich.com.
Our friend Scott MacKinnon recently experienced this thrill ride for himself and we have featured his crazy video below. If you would like to take on the ride of your life then you can check out Gravity Bolivia.
Thanks once again to Scott for sharing his video and we pray for the safety of anyone wishing to try out this adventure for themselves. Here are some amazing pictures taken from Flickr under creative commons.
After playing tiger hide and seek at Ranthambore, our next stop was Jaipur. Known as the “Pink City”, it’s the capital and largest city in the state of Rajasthan. The city was founded by royalty (Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh) in the 18th century, with the royal family still living there today.
The day started by taking a photo of the iconic facade of the Hama Mahal (Palace of the Winds) and from looking at it, it is clear why Jaipur got its nickname as the Pink City. Sprinting across traffic to take some snaps, we also managed to spot (much to our delight) a couple of snake charmers across the road from the Palace the first time we’d seen any on our trip.
We then sped over to Amber Fort for our elephant ride to get there. We rushed over there to avoid the queues, however, while the line seemed quite long we did get to the front fairly quickly. There are about 120 elephants that make the trek each morning to bring tourists to the top of the hill these elephants need to make five trips up and down in the morning and then their day’s work is done, so if you get there in the afternoon you will miss out on the elephant ride (as a result, our queue was packed with foreign tourists – Indians tend to drive/walk up the slope instead).
While waiting, we were confronted with at least a dozen hawkers who were peddling everything from camera memory cards and snake charmer-style hats to wooden statues of Ganesha and t-shirts printed with Indian tourist attractions.
If you’re absolutely not interested in buying don’t entertain these guys as they will pester you incessantly, but if you’re thinking of making a purchase you can bargain hard for a better deal.
Finally making it to the front of the line, we clambered onto our elephant, up the slope towards the Fort. It’s definitely a fun (if not rocky) experience and takes about 10-15 minutes in total.
Once we disembarked there was a sign that clearly said in big letters “no tipping”, however, our elephant driver actually hung around at the top looking for us until we passed him up a tip, despite the fact that Amber Fort churns through as many elephant rides in the morning as possible. As soon as we passed him the tip though, he couldn’t leave fast enough!
The Fort itself was breathtakingly beautiful. From just behind the entrance, the ladies of the harem could see out from inside, however, people standing outside couldn’t see them. One of the Mughal emperors who lived in Amber Fort had 12 wives and a harem of 364 women – when he arrived back at the Fort from a trip, there was a gap through the screens where his ladies could throw rose petals at him.
Inside, the Fort had lots of intricate designs on the walls and ceilings, including colored carvings inlaid with semi-precious stones such as rubies and emeralds (just like the Taj Mahal), as well as paintings of camels, tigers and scenes from the Kama Sutra.
There was also a winter and summer palace that faced each other with gorgeous gardens in between and a stream in between to keep people cool on steamy summer days. Other amazing features were the Turkish baths, a serenely white Hindu temple, as well as the Hall of Mirrors, which is exactly what it sounds like – hundreds of mirrors on the ceiling and walls that had silver frames around them.
After leaving the Fort and taking some photos of the Palace on the Lake, we headed over to Jantar Mantar – basically a big outdoor astronomy center, which houses over half a dozen devices that were built in the last several centuries to measure time, celestial bodies like the sun, as well as Zodiac signs.
The main attractions were two massive contraptions – one sundial which could tell time accurately to within twenty seconds, as well as a bigger version that was precise to two seconds. Standing under the hot midday sun, we cooled off afterward by buying milky Indian ice cream (kulfi)from a street vendor just outside Jantar Mantar.
Next was the City Palace and Museum, which gave us a glimpse into the history and lives of the Maharajas over the centuries. Here you could see the Maharaja and Rani’s (his wife’s) outfits, check out the hall where the royal family met with foreign dignitaries, as well as spot the two largest silver objects in the world (they’re in the Guinness Book of Records).
These are two large silver urns that weigh 364 kilograms, in which one Maharaja used to fill with water from the Ganges River when he was traveling, to ensure that he could bathe and drink this holy water even while he was away.
The royal family lives just behind the Museum – the current Maharaja is 70 years old and has three grandchildren, with his daughter’s eldest son next in line for the throne. Two flags upon their home indicate that the family is at home, while one means that they are out.
No photography is allowed inside the royal family’s house, however, if you are interested in looking inside the Palace, no photography is allowed and it costs Indian Rupee 2,500 to try and arrange a visit.
Our final stop on the tour was a handicraft/textile store to see how materials are dyed. Jaipur is well known for its thriving textile industry, and it was amazing to see a demonstration of how the process worked.
A man showed us a plain white cotton cloth and had four stamps which he stamped one after the other in different colors, to create a picture of a bejeweled Indian elephant. As soon as this was done the cloth was submerged in water – and magically, the colors didn’t wash out at all.
Driving through Old Jaipur again afterward, we passed dozens of stores selling fruit/vegetables and piles of textiles, as well as, of course (it wasn’t so strange anymore to see this), numerous cows and camels hanging around and strolling through the streets.
Starving, we decided to have lunch at Mcdonalds. Yes, you read right – while I don’t really eat it back home, we were curious to see what would be on the menu given that cows would not be an option. The substitute for the Big Mac was the Chicken Maharaja burger – it had two slices of chicken patty with lettuce, tomato, and cheese, as well as a spicy, yummy sauce.
Walking back to our hotel, the walk was a mere 15 minutes long but traffic was so noisy and chaotic that you wouldn’t want to walk around for more than 30, as it’s quite deafening.
Stay tuned for our next (and final) post on Jaipur at night – including the heart-stopping taxi ride the evening before, doing business in India and partying it up with the best of Indian culture – think banquet feasts, Bollywood-style dancing, elephant rides, and henna!
After enjoying the beauty of Agra, the next stop for us was Ranthambore, where we would be spending the next two days on the hunt for the elusive Indian tiger on several safaris.
We decided to splurge on our accommodation for the next couple of nights was one of the best on our trip – Vivanta by Taj, a five-star villa. Our room was massive – a king-sized bed with a safari tapestry hanging on the wall above, tiger-striped cushions and a huge marble bathroom that included a spa. It was so big that we had two air-conditioning units as well – definitely nice and plush!
In keeping with the safari theme, the hotel had a couple of stuffed wildcats – a tiger hung above the pool room while a leopard was encased in glass next to the reception area.
That evening, we were treated to a dinner fit for any Maharaja – an outdoor buffet dinner with lots of Indian dishes including daal and curries. Fresh naan bread was being made by two ladies clad in colorful saris, while dessert was the round, syrupy sweet gulab jamun and vanilla ice cream. To add to the ambiance, we had a family playing music, singing, and dancing, while clear bowls filled with rose petals floating in water and candles topped everything off.
The next morning, we woke up before dawn (yep, even before the crack of dawn was up), to get on our 6.30 am safari. We were on a canter for all three safaris over the next two days – basically they look like big buses with the roofs cut off. It was freezing though – the dew overnight meant that the seats were wet on the canter, but luckily we were provided with blankets to sit on and wrap around ourselves as the chilly wind whizzed past us.
After picking up a few more tourists, we were on our way to Ranthambore National Park. One of the biggest and most popular national parks in northern India, the chief attraction is the tiger, which is now endangered thanks to the site being a former hunting ground for the British and the Maharaja.
The park is crammed with other amazing flora and fauna that would enthrall any nature lover though – you can see massive trees (palm, gum and the second-largest banyan tree in India), marsh reeds, flat plains, and rising cliffs. There are also scores of birds (kingfishers, vultures, buzzards, snake birds/Indian darters, peacocks, and partridges), two types of deer (spotted and sambar), cheeky monkeys, and crocodiles (we saw one swimming in Padam Lake, one of the three lakes in the Park).
We didn’t have to wait long to see wildlife in action either – as soon as we drove in we saw an eagle swoop down at lightning speed to poach a rodent. David Attenborough would have a field day doing commentary in this place!
The terrain was incredibly bumpy to navigate around – we marveled at the skills of our driver, who seemed unfazed in backing up and down the essentially one-way road (heaven forbid what would happen should we cross paths with another canter – I think it would be a bit of a standoff to see who would back down first!).
We had our third and final safari at dawn the next morning. On this trip, we were the closest to spotting a tiger – it had rained in the morning so we spotted fresh tracks on the road, apparently trailing a bird.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see it in action, but over the three safaris highlights included gazing at a crossing of over 20 spotted stag and deer, watching a family of monkeys casually munching on berries in a tree (and getting up to some naughty monkey business), as well as several huge birds perched atop branches, pondering their next move.
Our tip for anyone interested in going for an Indian safari? If you can, try and score seats in the jeeps instead – they are smaller, less noisy and can drive further into the dense terrain – so you do increase your chances of seeing tigers and other animals that typically wouldn’t make their way down to the tracks.
With all the noise our canter was omitting, I wouldn’t have been surprised if we had scared the tigers away. If you don’t manage to hitch a ride in a jeep and opt for the canter, definitely aim to get seats right up the front looking out the windscreen.
48 hrs from Montanita I found myself in the desert oasis of Huacachina. It was a long time coming but I had been longing to get here ever since I laid eyes on its beauty in a picture I had randomly stumbled on years ago. When I say desert oasis, I truly mean it…
Huacachina is a small town of about two hundred people nestled between mountainous golden sand dunes, situated around a tranquil lagoon. There is only one road in and even it seemingly disappears into the sand once you cross the threshold and step foot on the waterside boardwalk.
My ultimate goal here was to try my hand at sandboarding but I found myself overcome by the sheer beauty and magnitude of my surroundings. Suddenly screaming down the sand at breakneck speeds wasn’t all that big of a concern.
From the moment our dune buggy broke the crest of that first hill of sand and the vast desert landscape came into focus, I was in absolute awe. It’s hard to comprehend that billions upon billions upon billions of tiny grains of sand can come together in such as display of constantly changing harmony, but there it was in front of me in all its glory.
From my feet to the horizon in every direction was nothing but sand. If it wasn’t for the roar of the dozen or so buggies whipping travelers up and down the slopes, it would have been all too easy to lose yourself in the silence for hours on end. Speaking of the dune buggies, they were an adventure all to themselves.
Built for nothing else but tackling these sand giants and consisting of little more than a roll cage, seats, and an engine, they would send you straight up a 60-degree slope in the blink of an eye and have you plummeting to your doom down the other side just as fast. The ride was just as much, if not more fun than the actual sandboarding.
It’s not to say sandboarding didn’t have its moments. Whether carving your way down via gentle gradual turns, snaking it to the bottom, or laying on your belly and charging from top to bottom in a straight line, it was all good fun. There was a steady progression in difficulty too.
The tiny hills eventually gave way to mountains and by the end there were definitely some challenges to making it all the way down without ending up on your backside. While it wasn’t surfing, or snowboarding, it still put a smile on my face.
In the end though, no amount of sandboarding could compare with the rush of gazing out upon the open desert in all of its grandeur. Just prior to dusk I took a walk to a perch high above the town and the view cemented in my mind as truly something memorable. It makes me wonder how many other unique places there are out there waiting to be discovered.
If most people don’t know about Huacachina, what other gems are waiting in the shadows?
“Bye-bye Delhi, welcome Agra!” These were the words our driver, Belwant said as we drove out of New Delhi and crossed into the state of Haryana en route to Agra.
But before we said goodbye to the capital we had a couple of final tourist stops – first was Red Fort, which we couldn’t visit the day before as it is closed on Mondays. Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1639, the fort took nine years to build and served as the capital of the Mughals until 1857, when the last emperor was dethroned and exiled by the British Government. Today the UNESCO World Heritage site is a popular tourist attraction to check out the sprawling buildings and incredible mix of marble, sandstone and precious laid stones that make up the fort.
Despite it being only 8.30 am, it was already incredibly smoggy around the fort, but fortunately, barely any tourists were in sight. Paying the foreigner’s entrance fee of 250 rupees (compared to an Indian’s 10 rupees), we entered via Lahore Gate (so-called because it faces the Pakistani city) and walked past scores of shops, which were all closed as we were there quite early.
Strolling past, we saw glimpses of Mughal architecture in its former glory – the royal bath, a pearl-colored mosque inlaid with semi-precious stones including emeralds and rubies, as well as a number of intricate royal apartments with eagle-eye views of the gardens below.
While we were walking, we managed to catch the attention of a couple of Indian men, who were less interested in looking at the fort and more keen on following us around. As we kept walking inside the complex, we walked past about six more men sitting around and chatting, who then decided to join the pair of other men in stalking us by a safe distance.
Fortunately, Mike and I managed to shake them off when I went to the bathroom (they couldn’t be bothered waiting around for me to come out) – not sure what their motives were but I was happy not to find out.
Last stop in Delhi was Mahatma Gandhi’s tomb, which we had missed out on seeing the day before thanks to US President Obama and his entourage checking it out. Taking our shoes off, Gandhi’s tomb was in the center of a simple garden. The black marble tomb was completely covered by floral garlands except for the one inscription “He Ram” in Hindi – meaning “Oh God”, his final words before he died.
From here started the five-and-a-half-hour drive to Agra, which crossed two state borders – Haryana and Uttar Pradesh. While we were surprised not to see many cows wandering the streets in Delhi, once we arrived in Haryana it was cow central everywhere – cars also swerved past dozens of goats, monkeys, water buffaloes, and even camels! The yellow/green painted tuk-tuks in Delhi evolved to tuk-tuks teeming with a minimum of 12 people (at least nine crammed inside, with a few hanging on behind), and we also drove past buses packed to the brim with passengers riding on the roof and bustling markets peddling everything from fruit and vegetables, clothes and everything else in between. The abject poverty here was more apparent than in Delhi – we noted little mud huts not much bigger than dog kennels to house families, women tilling the fields under the scorching midday sun in their bright-colored saris, and children using all the strength in their arms to pump wells for drinking and bathing water.
First stop in Agra was Akbar’s tomb, where we were met by our local guide. Known as Akbar the Great, this Mughal emperor not only respected all religions, he influenced much of the art and culture across the country. Dozens of deer loiter in the gardens inside, while the building at the entrance coincidentally looks like there’s a massive letter “A” in the middle.
Other interesting features of the building that houses Akbar’s tomb include the white domes that surround it – if you and someone else stand on diametrically opposing corners and face the wall, you can actually have a conversation as the sound travels up the slopes of the dome (the dark stains on the white marble are evidence that thousands of people have tried). If you stand in the center of the dome, you will find that any sound you make is magnified as again, the sound travels up the structure.
Our next destination was Agra Fort, on the banks of the Yamuna River. The most important fort in India, the fort housed many great Mughal emperors and is a maze of red sandstone buildings, with some that have clear views across the river of the Taj Mahal.
Sadly, Shah Jahan (who built the Taj Mahal for his wife), was forced to live out the last eight years of his life under house arrest in one of the rooms by his son, never being allowed to enter the Taj again but simply look across the river at his grand creation.
Deciding to skip a visit to the Taj Mahal until early the next morning (the optimal time to see it), we retreated to our hotel, the Clark Shiraz. Very fancy and we had a room facing the Taj (unfortunately it was either too dark or to hazy to get a good view), but our food choice that night wasn’t great – I was starving and my chicken was under-cooked, which put Mike and I off our appetites!
The next morning we were in the lobby around 6.30 am to make our way to the Taj Mahal, one of the most beautiful and romantic buildings in the world. A thick blanket of haze was around that morning, which made me think that we weren’t going to get a good view, but surprisingly by the time we walked in we were greeted by a gorgeous day as the haze cleared up and made way for the sun to shine through.
The marble changes color as the day progresses – it almost looked glittery gold at sunrise. Completely symmetrical and apparently earthquake-proof, the Taj is also flanked by two identical sandstone temples from which shimmer semi-precious stones.
The Taj looks all white from far away but when you come closer you see that it has these stones inlaid in them as well – including emeralds, rubies, malachites, and carnelians (which glow under a flashlight).
The way of doing the inlay work is a traditional still practiced today – and after our visit to Agra, we visited a store that not only showed people filing the stones to precisely fit the marble but also shelves filled with bowls, plates, tables, elephants and other marble works.
Our final stop in Agra – Fatehpur Sikri, created by Akbar the Great. Again, evidence of his respect for all religions was clear in the architecture, which had a mix of Christian, Hindu, and Islamic features. Akbar had a harem of 800 women living here at one point – although now the surroundings are pretty much a ghost town.
The craziest thing we saw there though? A guy who sought money from tourists by jumping regularly into a pool of lime green, moldy water. He definitely deserved a tip!
Bye by Agra – welcome Ranthambore!
After what seemed like an eternity of flights from Sandakan to Kuala Lumpur and from Kuala Lumpur to New Delhi, we stumbled out of the sterile New Delhi airport that welcomed thousands of visitors arriving for last month’s Commonwealth Games to be greeted by the contrasting smog, humidity and queues of distinctive black, green and yellow painted Ambassador taxis anticipating their next load of customers.
We were met by a representative of Adventure World, the company that we had booked our tours with for our stay in India. They then drove us to our hotel and we were as excited as a dog with a bone watching the scenes of Delhi unravel as we passed by – everything from tuk-tuks crammed with a dozen passengers or so on their way home, people jostling for their share of the road as they rode their bikes alongside the freeway (minus any helmet, reflectors or any safety gear of course) and men having impromptu meetings on the highway median strip as the traffic whizzed by within an inch from where they stood.
Arriving at Bajaj Guest House, our accommodation for the next two nights, we were welcomed with presents of silk scarves, (fake) single roses, and red bindi on our foreheads. Definitely recommend staying here if you’re on the hunt for a guest house – the staff were warm and our room was massive – particularly the floor-to-ceiling marble bathroom with a walk-in shower.
While a sign on the back of our door said that tipping wasn’t compulsory, we soon learned that pretty much everyone who provides a service for you – whether that be the bellboy in your hotel, the man who minds your slippers as you slide them off to go into a place of worship, or the sari-clad lady passing you squares of toilet paper outside the public restrooms expects it.
If you are visiting India and want a comfortable stay, check out Treebo hotels in Delhi as they are well-rated for their hospitality.
The hospitality continued the next morning with our breakfast of plain omelet, Indian-style spring rolls (crepes stuffed with various vegetables and spices), and vegetable macaroni (again, sauteed in more spices), before we headed downstairs to be met by our tour guide, Jhyoti and our driver for the start of our tour, which started at Jami Masjid, situated in Old Delhi and one of the largest mosques in India. Not only do you need to take your shoes off to enter the mosque, if your arms or legs are exposed at all you are provided with a long robe to wrap around you.
Built in 1656 by over 5,000 men, the massive 300-foot courtyard accommodates up to 25,000 devoted Muslims for prayer. Amidst the courtyard lies a large pool of water for washing, while two minarets frame the great central arch. We decide to test our legs and scale the dark, narrow, and dizzying stairs of the southern minaret that leads to some spectacular views of the city.
Perched at the top were five men from the state of Uttar Pradesh who enthusiastically accommodated us to seats in the already cramped minaret, raved about their love for cricket (the sport) and practically jumped for joy when we suggested taking a photo of them.
Saying goodbye to our newfound friends, the next stop was a rickshaw ride that snaked through the tapering streets of Old Delhi. Here, we uncovered tiny standing-room-only stores selling leis from the Diwali festivities that finished two days before, fried samosas sizzling that were being gobbled up by several men surrounding the store, as well as carts overflowing with bananas, lemons, and other fruits and vegetables.
The lanes were so narrow in parts that it was possible for the neighbors across the road from each other to shake hands, while the electrical wiring was so convoluted that any Western electrician who saw it would suffer their own convulsions. Everywhere we looked there was a story unfolding – whether it was the men reclining against their row of rickshaws, the lady wearing the beautiful yellow and red embroidered sari sweeping the street between a couple of mulling cows or even the scores of eagles flying overhead, ready to possibly pick on the remains of the ashes of those cremated down the Yamuna River.
Yet among the colors and craziness, poverty was more than apparent – including passing a neighborhood stockpiled with every car part you can imagine – and where you went to buy back your stolen parts from the night before!
Next stop was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal, the lesser-known Humayun’s Tomb, built in the 16th century. Known as the “red Taj Mahal”, it is made out of 34 shades of white marble and was commissioned by his wife, who was scandalously in love with her jeweler. Wanting to make a tomb for her lover as well but not wanting to draw attention to her affair, she constructed many other tombs across the sprawling complex. Wanting to be buried in a separate tomb upon her death, this wish was not granted by the people, who wound up placing her by her husband’s side.
On route to Qutb Minar (also spelled Qutab or Qutub), we were stuck in a massive traffic jam thanks to US President Obama being in town. As traffic ground to a halt, bikes, and motorbikes were unperturbed, deciding to use the sidewalk to whiz past us.
Finally arriving at our destination, we discover that due to not having enough money to create his own place of worship, the Muslim ruler decided to hijack the site of an old Hindu temple to convert it to an Islamic one. Besides checking out an interesting and intricate example of Indo-Islamic architecture, the site features one of the great metal mysteries of all time – an iron pillar from around the fourth century BC that apparently nobody had the technical know-how to build until 22 centuries later.
According to legend, anyone who can put their arms around this solid, 24-foot pillar will have his or her wish granted (although there’s now a fence around it to stop you from trying). Amazingly, the pillar has never rusted – adding to the enigma behind it.
I manage to catch the eye of a gaggle of schoolboys while Mike and I take a photo together – seconds later, we’re surrounded by a dozen wanting to take photos with me! I wonder who I was mistaken for. Pushing past my admirers (cough), I later see a sign for “Paras Chemist” and learn that my surname in Hindi is the most sacred stone atop a snake’s head. There’s also “Paras Milk” (the first “bactofied” milk in India) and “Paras International Hotel” in Delhi. Indeed!
Last stop was Rashtrapati Bhavan – the President of India’s official residence where you can only take photos through the gates. In typical Indian style, while India’s parliament neighborhood is immaculate, the gardens are not complete with elephant-shaped bonsai and of course, a couple of resident monkeys running through.
Culture-crammed, we wind our day with a delicious Indian meal of roti, naan, chicken tikka and keema curry, washed down with mango juice. Too stuffed for a full-blown dinner, we skip dinner and hunt down a sweet store, Bikanervala, which hits the spot with crumbly and milky squares of heaven. We recommend the kalakand – yum!
